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Routes in 11. Pine Mountain
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Contact T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Country Blumpkin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dancin on the edge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hank Chinos T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Heads Up T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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It’s a Pinkham Thing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ladyslipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Matrimoany T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Old Broad's Birthday Bash T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Old Route Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pope on a Rope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad |
| GPS: | 44.36371, -71.21278 |
| FA: | Matt and Kathy Barker |
| Page Views: | 1,146 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Birk on Aug 4, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Climbs the slabs past a few bolts and gear right to the base of the headwall, to a 2 bolt ring anchor.
Location
(Once Was the) First climb on the left of the cliff
R Hall adds: About 20-30 ft right of "Dancin" with its easily-recognized, 'patented', P. Cormier Aluminum bolt.
We started on the left end of the slab (photo of RW), climbed left-to-right up the smooth, green-lichened slab to the first bolt (getting here we thought was "crux 1", 5.7 R friction, it really could use a bolt) then easy climbing to the short, but steep, "lower headwall" ( "crux #2" pro = 2 bolts) then to the dbl bolt anchor.
Descent - we descended with a single 70m to the "Dancin" belay ledge, thence to to ground off the pine tree rap station. ( We then took advantage of the TR on Dancin to brush that climb's P1. ) This was so easy and safe, we didn't even try to see if we could make the ground with a 70m, but No Way with a 60m.
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