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Routes in Pine Mountain

Contact T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hank Chinos T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
It’s a Pinkham Thing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Broad's Birthday Bash T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Old Route Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pope on a Rope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 2,000 ft
GPS: 44.364, -71.213 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,591 total · 142/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 17, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

An old-time slab/cliff (first climbed in the 1930's with evidence of further climbing in the late 1960's-mid-70's) that has seen some recent activity, mostly by Matt and Kathy Barker who researched the early climb(s) with the Boston AMC. Helping them was/is Ben Smith and the Chinos' Jon Garlough and Hank Tracy.

The cliff/slab presents a interesting alternative to slabs like Whitehorse and even Table and Rainbow due to its unusual character of slabs with a serious number of small overlaps, and at least one route completely on pegmatite.

Bring a light standard rack (we didn't use anything larger than a #1 (red) although we brought a #2 (gold) & a #3, "alpine draws" (i.e. long-ish) are useful, the routes wander a bit. Expect to find a bolt or two if needed but we aren't talking "sport climbs" here. Nuts seemed especially useful on the pegmatite. We survived with a single 70m rope, but used the trees on far right to descend from the top ( 3 single rope raps).


Fairly easy approach: 0.9 mi. on private dirt road, 0.1 mile on trail and about 0.3 mi bushwhack

Currently that 0.3 mi bushwhack, while not bad in terms of the degree of "brush-crashing", is still pretty obscure. (More on this in "Getting There".) With additional visits this may become more clear.

The climbs currently are: (L to R order)
Pope on a Rope 5.7
It's a Pinkham Thing 5.8
Old Route Direct 5.7
Contact 5.6
Hank Chinos 5.6

Getting There

Take the Dolly Copp road from Rt 16 north of Pinkham Notch past the entrances to both the campground and Barns Field (group camping) whereupon it turns to dirt. Continue a few miles to the height-of-land and a parking lot on the left and a private road on the right (East). Park here. [From the north and west, pick up the northern end of the Dolly Copp road off of Rt2 near Randolph, NH.]

Walk (or, I guess, biking is OK, as the sign says only "No Cars") the 0.9 mile to the Ledges Trail. Take this about 0.1 mile to a large boulder on the right with a dead birch tree trunk in front of it. [This is the 2nd or 3rd boulder you pass, but is the largest...perhaps in the near future there'll be a cairn on it or nearby.]

Leave the trail here and contour around at the same level. (altimeter / altitude watch and/or GPS currently helpful) for about 0.3 mile that will feel like twice that. [With stopping, checking location, etc, figure 40-50 minutes your first time "in".] If you drop too low you might completely miss the cliff, so if anything "error high". You will cross a small but distinct drainage about 1/3 of the way to the slab, and then a larger (wider) but less distinct drainage about 2/3rds of the way there. Generally, the "path" seems reasonably clear as far as the first drainage [cuttings and very occasional green tape], and also reasonably clear from the 2nd drainage to the cliff (once you find it), but the territory between the drainages seems to be "no man's land".

One key: if, shortly after passing the 2nd drainage, you hit talus DROP DOWN to go around the talus.

To add confusion, the last time I was therte (Aug 2016) a line of pink surveyer's tape branches off from the hiking trail a bit lower than the boulder shown in the photo. mmmm??

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pine Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hank Chinos
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Contact
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Route Direct
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It’s a Pinkham Thing
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hank Chinos 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Contact 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Old Route Direct 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
It’s a Pinkham Thing 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Pine Mountain »

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Dhane Knakkergaard
Intervale, NH
Dhane Knakkergaard   Intervale, NH
Super cruiser climbing! I know its been said, but great alt option to Whitehorse. Route finding is certainly the best part about climbing here, just wandering through the lichen, fairly abundant pro, with the mighty Mt. Wash over your shoulder.If you havent checked this place out yet, do it.

As a side note, I did find a few places to throw a #2 in. I would bring one if you plan on doing Its a Pinkham Thing May 21, 2017
beach
Portland, ME
beach   Portland, ME
This cliff is definitely worth checking out, interesting and different climbing and a little bit of route finding make it super fun. The hike in isn't too bad. Jul 23, 2016

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