Pine Mountain Rock Climbing
|GPS:||44.364, -71.213 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||7,300 total · 130/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Jul 17, 2016|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
The cliff/slab presents a interesting alternative to slabs like Whitehorse and even Table and Rainbow due to its unusual character of slabs with a serious number of small overlaps, and at least one route completely on pegmatite.
Bring a light standard rack (we didn't use anything larger than a #1 (red) although we brought a #2 (gold) & a #3, "alpine draws" (i.e. long-ish) are useful, the routes wander a bit. Expect to find a bolt or two if needed but we aren't talking "sport climbs" here. Nuts seemed especially useful on the pegmatite. We survived with a single 70m rope, but used the trees on far right to descend from the top ( 3 single rope raps).
Fairly easy approach: 0.9 mi. on private dirt road, 0.1 mile on trail and about 0.3 mi bushwhack
Currently that 0.3 mi bushwhack, while not bad in terms of the degree of "brush-crashing", is still pretty obscure. (More on this in "Getting There".) With additional visits this may become more clear.
The climbs currently are: (L to R order)
Pope on a Rope 5.7
It's a Pinkham Thing 5.8
Old Route Direct 5.7
Hank Chinos 5.6
Walk (or, I guess, biking is OK, as the sign says only "No Cars") the 0.9 mile to the Ledges Trail. Take this about 0.1 mile to a large boulder on the right with a dead birch tree trunk in front of it. [This is the 2nd or 3rd boulder you pass, but is the largest...perhaps in the near future there'll be a cairn on it or nearby.]
Leave the trail here and contour around at the same level. (altimeter / altitude watch and/or GPS currently helpful) for about 0.3 mile that will feel like twice that. [With stopping, checking location, etc, figure 40-50 minutes your first time "in".] If you drop too low you might completely miss the cliff, so if anything "error high". You will cross a small but distinct drainage about 1/3 of the way to the slab, and then a larger (wider) but less distinct drainage about 2/3rds of the way there. Generally, the "path" seems reasonably clear as far as the first drainage [cuttings and very occasional green tape], and also reasonably clear from the 2nd drainage to the cliff (once you find it), but the territory between the drainages seems to be "no man's land".
One key: if, shortly after passing the 2nd drainage, you hit talus DROP DOWN to go around the talus.
To add confusion, the last time I was there (Aug 2016) a line of pink surveyer's tape branches off from the hiking trail a bit lower than the boulder shown in the photo. mmmm??
Classic Climbing Routes at Pine Mountain
Days w Precip