Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Matt Barker and Ben Smith
Page Views: 518 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ron Birk on Aug 4, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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[From Barker] Submitted by Ron Birk, edited with permission by R Hall

START: About 50-60 ft left of the toe of the slab (i.e.50-60 ft Left of the start of "Old Route Direct") at a 10-12-inch diameter tree that forms "double trunks" about 6 ft off the ground. If you stand back a few feet from the tree you should be able to see 2 or 3 of the bolts.

P1. Climb slab 10-12 ft and then pull the overlap (gear) at the base and climb up to a stance on the slab. At this point a pink tri cam might be slotted in a pocket. (Certain sized "Stoppers" might also work) Now commit to the slab past 3 bolts, and continue on pegamtite past a 4th bolt to a big overlap. Pull throughout this (5th bolt) to a ring anchor. 115-120 ft 5.8 (Rapping this with a 60m rope leaves you 10 ft from the ground to downclimb the opening slab.)

P2. The next pitch goes up and right to the large pine tree, all on natural gear pulling many overlaps along the way.

P3. The 3rd pitch is a scramble over some really cool rock.


Little before the toe of the slab.


Standard rack


Portland, ME
beach   Portland, ME
the first pitch of this route is phenomenal all by itself, fun route finding up top Aug 4, 2016
Dhane Knakkergaard
Intervale, NH
Dhane Knakkergaard   Intervale, NH
Whew. this climb is good ol fashioned fun. If you dig slab, get on it May 21, 2017