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Routes in Rattletale Wall

Avenging the Goddess Kring T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Amphibian , The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Arch Enemy T A4
Bonobo, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Chasin' the Lizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Claw, The T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cricket, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jane Goodall S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kubla Khan and the Fountain of Eternal Stoke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Millipede , The TR V2 5+
Orangutan , The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rattletale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shrew, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snake, The T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Source, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wasp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
With Man Gone Will There Be Hope For Gorilla T A2
ze Squid T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: David Gunstone, Darryl Cramer
Page Views: 769 total, 35/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Feb 26, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Pitch 1) 10a. Mixed. A bit convoluted but fun climbing. Not sure how they intended the start, I stemmed off tree, but you could approach off the Lizard slab to the right. If you stem off the tree, there is some trad pro near start, then 2 bolt flaring stem box ( crux) fingers- hands- OW ( shared with Lizard), then traverse to single bolt on left slab, balance around corner to bolted belay. Spent some time cleaning this with my friend Bill on 2/24/16.
The first ascent team calls this 10a, I would give it a 10b

Pitch 2) Short 5.9, pass 2 bolts with face climbing into corner ( fingers-hands crack)to big ledge above with good bolted chain anchor. Make 2 single rope raps or double rope rap to ground. This ledge is 40m up.Bill Ayre cleaned this 2/24/16.
The first ascent team calls this 5.9, maybe 10a.

Pitch 3) 12a, 6 bolts, bolted anchor. Some very small gear might work but it is well bolted. Was a bit spooky and committing for me, still a project for me, but should be pretty easy for a 5.12 climber.
Others are calling this pitch 11c.The grade was what the first ascent team gave it, I guess others think it is easier.

Location

left side of wall, Chasing the Lizard is on the right. The bolted 3rd pitch starts directly above large ledge, with another 12a on the right side of the arete- Non stop Erotic Cabaret.

Protection

All 3/8" bolts, the 1st 2 bolts are SS, all others rusty plated steel. Standard rack to 4". 2 each .5, .75, #1 camalot. If you are not comfortable on off-width you may want a #5.
It is a full 40 meters to top of 2nd pitch ledge. But we have rapped this with a single 70 meter rope by going to top of boulder from the top of the 2nd pitch anchor, and down climbing the big leaning boulder.

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