Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: David Gunstone, Darryl Cramer
Page Views: 903 total · 27/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Feb 26, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

8 Opinions

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Pitch 1) 10a. Mixed. A bit convoluted but fun climbing. Not sure how they intended the start, I stemmed off tree, but you could approach off the Lizard slab to the right. If you stem off the tree, there is some trad pro near start, then 2 bolt flaring stem box ( crux) fingers- hands- OW ( shared with Lizard), then traverse to single bolt on left slab, balance around corner to bolted belay. Spent some time cleaning this with my friend Bill on 2/24/16.
The first ascent team calls this 10a, I would give it a 10b

Pitch 2) Short 5.9, pass 2 bolts with face climbing into corner ( fingers-hands crack)to big ledge above with good bolted chain anchor. Make 2 single rope raps or double rope rap to ground. This ledge is 40m up.Bill Ayre cleaned this 2/24/16.
The first ascent team calls this 5.9, maybe 10a.

Pitch 3) 12a, 6 bolts, bolted anchor. Some very small gear might work but it is well bolted. Was a bit spooky and committing for me, still a project for me, but should be pretty easy for a 5.12 climber.
Others are calling this pitch 11c.The grade was what the first ascent team gave it, I guess others think it is easier.


left side of wall, Chasing the Lizard is on the right. The bolted 3rd pitch starts directly above large ledge, with another 12a on the right side of the arete- Non stop Erotic Cabaret.


All 3/8" bolts, the 1st 2 bolts are SS, all others rusty plated steel. Standard rack to 4". 2 each .5, .75, #1 camalot. If you are not comfortable on off-width you may want a #5.
It is a full 40 meters to top of 2nd pitch ledge. But we have rapped this with a single 70 meter rope by going to top of boulder from the top of the 2nd pitch anchor, and down climbing the big leaning boulder.


geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.