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Routes in Rattletale Wall

Avenging the Goddess Kring T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Amphibian , The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Arch Enemy T A4
Bonobo, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Chasin' the Lizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Claw, The T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cricket, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jane Goodall S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kubla Khan and the Fountain of Eternal Stoke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Millipede , The TR V2 5+
Orangutan , The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rattletale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shrew, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snake, The T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Source, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wasp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
With Man Gone Will There Be Hope For Gorilla T A2
ze Squid T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 50 ft
FA: Jacob Smith
Page Views: 708 total, 25/month
Shared By: Jacob Smith on Aug 2, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Pitch 1 (C2+) -
Clean aid out a prominent, long, left/downward facing arch just right of Arch Enemy and then ascend briefly to a bolted anchor. Expect some excitement with tiny gear right off the ground, followed by some good pieces at the apex of the arch, and then the crux as the crack becomes shallow and flaring.

As far as free climbing is concerned, consider this an open project. Be aware that a boulder pad or three is probably better protection than any of the gear you're going to get until the apex of the arch.

Pitch 2 (A2) -
From the bolted anchor at the top of pitch 1, bat hook right to a series of upward facing flakes, then head up the thin seam from the bolt, many beaks placement but some pods for solid clean gear too, ends at a bolted anchor just before the large treed ledge.
This pitch would likely go clean at C3-4.

Location

Obvious prominent arch just above where the trail to Rattletale Wall splits (left to Rattletale, right to other new routes).

Protection

Standard clean aid rack for the first pitch, ball nuts and offset cams a must.
I strongly suspect that the more ball nuts you have, the easier this climb becomes.

For the second pitch, take a small iron rack with an emphasis on beak-type pitons of all sizes, also clean gear to .5 inches.

Photos

Jacob Smith
Seattle, WA
 
Jacob Smith   Seattle, WA
 
Stamati - It's complicated, we can talk about it if you want. Nov 24, 2016
Stamati
Bellingham, WA
 
Stamati   Bellingham, WA
 
I'm assuming you'd be less than stoked on bolts for free climbing.... Nov 19, 2016
Downtownt Kay
Everett, WA
Downtownt Kay   Everett, WA
you'll want to find a belay slave? :) also, great name Jacob! Aug 25, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Nice route name Jacob, and it looks like a fun, clean route. Aug 3, 2015