Type: Trad, Aid, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Jacob Smith
Page Views: 1,312 total · 21/month
Shared By: Jacob Smith on Aug 2, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: The Novel Coronavirus & 2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Pitch 1 (C2+) -
Clean aid out a prominent, long, left/downward facing arch just right of Arch Enemy and then ascend briefly to a bolted anchor. Expect some excitement with tiny gear right off the ground, followed by some good pieces at the apex of the arch, and then the crux as the crack becomes shallow and flaring.

As far as free climbing is concerned, consider this an open project. Be aware that a boulder pad or three is probably better protection than any of the gear you're going to get until the apex of the arch.

Pitch 2 (A2) -
From the bolted anchor at the top of pitch 1, bat hook right to a series of upward facing flakes, then head up the thin seam from the bolt, many beaks placement but some pods for solid clean gear too, ends at a bolted anchor just before the large treed ledge.
This pitch would likely go clean at C3-4.

Location

Obvious prominent arch just above where the trail to Rattletale Wall splits (left to Rattletale, right to other new routes).

Protection

Standard clean aid rack for the first pitch, ball nuts and offset cams a must.
I strongly suspect that the more ball nuts you have, the easier this climb becomes.

For the second pitch, take a small iron rack with an emphasis on beak-type pitons of all sizes, also clean gear to .5 inches.

Photos