Type: Trad, Aid, 50 ft
FA: Jacob Smith
Page Views: 844 total · 21/month
Shared By: Jacob Smith on Aug 2, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Pitch 1 (C2+) -
Clean aid out a prominent, long, left/downward facing arch just right of Arch Enemy and then ascend briefly to a bolted anchor. Expect some excitement with tiny gear right off the ground, followed by some good pieces at the apex of the arch, and then the crux as the crack becomes shallow and flaring.

As far as free climbing is concerned, consider this an open project. Be aware that a boulder pad or three is probably better protection than any of the gear you're going to get until the apex of the arch.

Pitch 2 (A2) -
From the bolted anchor at the top of pitch 1, bat hook right to a series of upward facing flakes, then head up the thin seam from the bolt, many beaks placement but some pods for solid clean gear too, ends at a bolted anchor just before the large treed ledge.
This pitch would likely go clean at C3-4.

Location

Obvious prominent arch just above where the trail to Rattletale Wall splits (left to Rattletale, right to other new routes).

Protection

Standard clean aid rack for the first pitch, ball nuts and offset cams a must.
I strongly suspect that the more ball nuts you have, the easier this climb becomes.

For the second pitch, take a small iron rack with an emphasis on beak-type pitons of all sizes, also clean gear to .5 inches.

Photos

Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Nice route name Jacob, and it looks like a fun, clean route. Aug 3, 2015
Tee Kay
Seattle, WA
Tee Kay   Seattle, WA
you'll want to find a belay slave? :) also, great name Jacob! Aug 25, 2015
Stig .
Seattle
 
Stig .   Seattle
 
I'm assuming you'd be less than stoked on bolts for free climbing.... Nov 19, 2016
Jacob Smith
Seattle, WA
  A2
Jacob Smith   Seattle, WA
  A2
Stamati - It's complicated, we can talk about it if you want. Nov 24, 2016