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Routes in Rattletale Wall

Avenging the Goddess Kring T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Amphibian , The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Arch Enemy T A4
Bonobo, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Chasin' the Lizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Claw, The T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cricket, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jane Goodall S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kubla Khan and the Fountain of Eternal Stoke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Millipede , The TR V2 5+
Orangutan , The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rattletale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shrew, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snake, The T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Source, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wasp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
With Man Gone Will There Be Hope For Gorilla T A2
ze Squid T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,917 total, 27/month
Shared By: sqwirll on Feb 22, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

This pitch has it all from hands,fingers,stemming, and offwidth. It deserves to see more traffic. The route starts out in the right hand of two crack systems. Hand jams lead up to the left facing corner. Continue up the corner (fingers) to the stem box above. Continue stemming and grunting up the wide crack and chimney to the shared anchor (2nd pitch of Avenging the Goddess Kring). 2 single 60m raps or one double rap with get you back to the ground.

Location

Start 50' to the left of Rattletale.

Protection

Standard rack with gear to 4"-5".
TaylorLutz
Seattle
 
TaylorLutz   Seattle
 
really good route. long, sustained and varied Jun 23, 2017
Laurel Fan  
 
Thanks for the cleaning! I would not describe it as dirty now. It's cleaner than the first pitch of Rattletale (and possibly easier and better than Rattletale?)

Don't get scared off by the offwidthness if you don't have a lot of big cams or big bros. I didn't bring anything bigger than a 4, and a 3 would have worked near where I dumped it at the bottom of the route. Mar 22, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
Gave this route a scrub on Wednesday Feb. 24, 2016. ran out of time, still dirty, but better then it was.
Exactly 40m pitch.
Much variety, no moves harder then 5.9.
2 crux moves are OW, 1st transition from OW to tight hands near start.
2nd crux (described above) is mid way up as left hand OW goes to #5 size right side crack is flaring jam.
I feel comfortable leading this with a single #4, but you have to save it for the middle of route and slide it up some. #5 optional.
We have rapped this with a single 70 meter rope to top of boulder, down climb. Feb 26, 2016
mark webster
Gig Harbor
mark webster   Gig Harbor
August 28, 2015
We did this route yesterday. It was super fun, and little easier than Rattletale. It's a tiny bit dirty, but only because it doesn't get as much traffic as Rattletale. It's very long. We had a sixty meter rope and not much was left on the ground when my partner got to the anchors. The climbing is widely varied, from snarky little finger jams to double hand stacks. We were glad to have 2 fours, a five and a purple big bro.

We thought the hardest move was where the double crack changes to a number five placement on the left, and a pinched off crack on the right. So the move is a heel toe jam on the left, a marginal right foot jam in a flare on the right, with a double hand stack on the left. I can't wait to get back and lead it myself.

It's two raps with a sixty. The anchor bolts are not inspiring, but normal for 20 years ago. They would benefit from an upgrade. Aug 28, 2015
Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
 
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
 
Update on conditions. Chasin' the Lizard (right crack, continues through the chimney) is clean right now and a fantastic climb. I brought a double rack of cams to #3, a 4 or 5 could easily be placed but are not necessary. Nuts are helpful. You can get down in 1 rappel with a single 80m rope. This is a fantastic climb, one of my favorite moderates at Index.

Avenging the Goddess Kring (left crack start) is currently very mossy. 5 years ago, I believe that Chasin' the Lizard was dirty and Goddess Kring was clean, which seems to have switched around. Both are worthwhile if clean. Jul 18, 2015
Ashort
Las Vegas, NV
 
Ashort   Las Vegas, NV
 
This route is really fun and deserves to see more traffic. If you are in the area for Rattletale you might as well climb this one too.

I used a #4 down low on the route, there are other options for gear up higher where the crack on the left opens up. Great stem/chimney rests allow you to take time to place some small cams or nuts in the right crack instead of just slamming in a #5 in the wide left crack. Jun 1, 2015
Daniel Coltrane
Seattle, WA
 
Daniel Coltrane   Seattle, WA
 
Avenging the Goddess Kring starts in the left hand crack system through two bolts, kinda mossy as of this comment post, and climbs up through the chimney and heads out left past a bolt (10a) to a two bolt anchor at just about 30m. From here one climbs up and left through a right facing corner, can be wet and vinery, past two bolts (5.9) to meet up with the top of Chasin' the Lizard. Both pitches are fun and worth three stars. The climb is rated at 12a in the guide book, but that is only for the last pitch to the top. Jan 21, 2014
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
@Mark - I think this variation is Chasing the Lizard. I don't have it with me but I believe that's what it says in Sky Valley Rock. The comment in the pic seems to verify it.

cascadeclimbers.com/plab/sh… Jun 8, 2012
Jessica T
seattle, wa
 
Jessica T   seattle, wa
 
Really fun route. Gear up to a #4 Camalot. #5 optional. Anchor just above the ledge. The second rap station is in need of replacement. One of the bolts is completely rusted through. May 17, 2012
Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
 
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
 
Isn't this Avenging the Goddess Kring? Jun 5, 2011