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Routes in Cenotaph Crag

5.9 Crack Right of 5.8 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Apparition T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ethereal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Eight Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaked Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Going Down In it T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Like a Junky Tying Off for the Last Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phaedra T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Phantasm T,S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Right to Life TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stairway to Purgatory T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up Above It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
[Getting] Down On It S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: T. Bubb, J. Haas, 2/2016
Page Views: 168 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 22, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is not a bad route. It has an all-too-short section of great flake jamming, with some interesting climbing both above and below that section.

Spot the flake and climb up into that from below, doing the route's crux to reach into those jams. Follow the 2-3" flake up to its top and onto a ledge. Make less secure (slabby) moves off of the ledge to the top of the rock and put in a belay or directional with a few #3 Camalots.

Scrambling off of this ledge is possible to the East.

Location

Flaked Out lies on the very right hand end of the Cenotaph Crag, facing the Cenotaph Spire. It ascends the jagged looking flake system on the left end of that facet of the wall.

Protection

A set of cams from small to 3" and some slings. Multiple #3 Camalots can be placed in a horizontal at the top for an anchor or directional.

Photos

This fun, often-fragile flake lies on the left edge of the south face. It's an easy lower-off or toprope from the bolted anchor atop the 5.11. Mar 16, 2018

More About Flaked Out

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