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Routes in Cenotaph Crag

5.9 Crack Right of 5.8 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Apparition T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Route S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ethereal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Eight Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaked Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Going Down In it T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Going Down On It S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Phaedra T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Phantasm T,S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Right to Life TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stairway to Purgatory T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up Above It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown.
Page Views: 127 total, 1/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Apr 12, 2002 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

I'm really not sure what the hell is the deal with this route. Two meandering bolts, some bolts w/o hangers and bolt holes, and poorly placed anchors for easy TR access suggest the equipper might have been high.

Follow the first distinct line (2 bolts) to the right of the giant dihedral corner. Thin face climbing leads to a right-slanting crack finish.

Protection

2 bolts start the climb and then it's nothing until the two bolt anchor at the top.... though you probably can fish something into the top crack, it still will be fairly spicy. In setting up a TR, be CAREFUL! the bolts are low on a slopey face. Best to set it up while anchored in to something or someone secure.

Per Andrew Zaslove: the route was cleaned up a bit, and the old bolts (buttonheads) were removed/replaced. THREE bomber bolts now lead to a few small pieces in the upper crack.

Photos

Andrew Zaslove
Boulder, CO
 
Andrew Zaslove   Boulder, CO
 
There is new 1/2" hardware on the bottom three pieces. This route is awesome now! It got cleaned up a bit and the old bolts (buttons) removed/replaced. THREE bomber bolts now lead to a few small pieces in the upper crack. Super safe and fun climb! PG-13 at worst and about mid-5.11! I'd give it 3 stars personally. 3 days ago