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Routes in Cenotaph Crag

5.9 Crack Right of 5.8 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Apparition T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ethereal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Eight Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaked Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Going Down In it T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Like a Junky Tying Off for the Last Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phaedra T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Phantasm T,S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Right to Life TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stairway to Purgatory T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up Above It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
[Getting] Down On It S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 117 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 22, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Up Above It is a reasonable route with some questionable gear opportunities. An experienced trad leader should feel OK, but the placements can be tough to suss out in a few spots.

Start from the ground just down and right of a large plateau of rock that extends into the main Cenotaph corner, Right to Life. Climb easy moves up and left onto the plateau and then up and right through a set of cracks. There are a few short cruxes, with the top one being a short move with a wide hand jam for only a few inches, feeling about 5.10b.

Some suspect rock was recently cleaned from the route, and presently it seems mostly solid to me.

Location

Just right of the main Cenotaph corner and the bolted lines, a set of discontinuous thin cracks goes up and right, starting on the ledge and finishing up top.

Protection

A standard rack of cams to 3" and a set of nuts.

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