Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cenotaph Crag

5.9 Crack Right of 5.8 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Apparition T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ethereal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Eight Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaked Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Going Down In it T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Like a Junky Tying Off for the Last Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phaedra T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Phantasm T,S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Right to Life TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stairway to Purgatory T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up Above It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
[Getting] Down On It S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: T. Bubb, J. Haas, 2/2016
Page Views: 195 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 22, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Seasonal Closure Details


Stairway to Purgatory is a moderate route with some reasonable climbing, but it is nothing special. On the right side of the South end of Cenotaph Crag, a few meters to the right of the more obvious route, 'Flaked Out,' a left-facing corner is the prominent feature.

Climb up into and beyond this to the top of the rock, placing gear wherever possible along the way. Belay off of boulders up top using the rope of cordelettes, and descend via a scramble to the East (shortest option) or up and over the crag to the North, and then West, then back down around to the base.


At the right side of the South end of Cenotaph Crag, just right of 'Flaked Out,' Stairway to Purgatory pulls up and left onto a ledge and up into a left-facing corner to the top.

Per George Bracksieck: this is in the center of the South face.


A single rack of stoppers and cams will do, with 0.5-1" cams being the most important.

A set of very large boulders up top can be slung with cordalettes of the rope for an anchor.


Climbed this March 4 with Mike Endicott. About four years ago, he told me that he had led his grandkids up this a few years earlier. 5 days ago
No need to build an anchor and walk off. Just do a short, easy traverse to the bolted anchor atop the 5.11. I placed some C3s and faced minor runouts. This is NOT a good beginners lead. 5 days ago
This is in the center of the south face. 5 days ago

More About Stairway to Purgatory

Printer-Friendly Guide