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Routes in Cenotaph Crag

5.9 Crack Right of 5.8 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Apparition T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ethereal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Eight Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaked Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Going Down In it T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Like a Junky Tying Off for the Last Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phaedra T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Phantasm T,S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Right to Life TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stairway to Purgatory T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up Above It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
[Getting] Down On It S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Mike Endicott and grandkids, pre-2016, (T. Bubb, J. Haas, 2/2016?)
Page Views: 222 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 22, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Stairway to Purgatory is a moderate route with some reasonable climbing, but it is nothing special. On the right side of the South end of Cenotaph Crag, a few meters to the right of the more obvious route, 'Flaked Out,' a left-facing corner is the prominent feature.

Climb up into and beyond this to the top of the rock, placing gear wherever possible along the way. Belay off of boulders up top using the rope of cordelettes, and descend via a scramble to the East (shortest option) or up and over the crag to the North, and then West, then back down around to the base.

Location

At the right side of the South end of Cenotaph Crag, just right of 'Flaked Out,' Stairway to Purgatory pulls up and left onto a ledge and up into a left-facing corner to the top.

Per George Bracksieck: this is in the center of the South face.

Protection

A single rack of stoppers and cams will do, with 0.5-1" cams being the most important.

A set of very large boulders up top can be slung with cordalettes of the rope for an anchor.

Photos

Climbed this March 4 with Mike Endicott. About four years ago, he told me that he had led his grandkids up this a few years earlier. Mar 16, 2018
No need to build an anchor and walk off. Just do a short, easy traverse to the bolted anchor atop the 5.11. I placed some C3s and faced minor runouts. This is NOT a good beginners lead. Mar 16, 2018
This is in the center of the south face. Mar 16, 2018
The FA should be changed to Mike Endicott and grandkids. Mar 30, 2018

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