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Routes in Cenotaph Crag

5.9 Crack Right of 5.8 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Apparition T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Route S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ethereal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Eight Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaked Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Going Down In it T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Going Down On It S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Phaedra T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Phantasm T,S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Right to Life TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stairway to Purgatory T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up Above It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: S. Levin, free solo, September 1990, F. Knapp, D. Hare, 1991 (2nd)
Page Views: 112 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 18, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

A hard route for the grade, with no pro down low. It would be easy to get injured slipping off the holds down low, which are surprisingly insecure for such good edges.

There is more protection as you get about 20' up, but that is past the crux anyway.

Down low get into the center area of a broad, black streak and find some good-angled crimpers - set feet and heave up onto higher holds, eventually heading slightly right to the right side of the back streak. A few small nuts could be placed there, then continue up and left passing a few intermittent cracks and potential placements as you go higher (and the climbing gets easier).

The crux is down low and not really protectable, so consider a TR, which can be done on Camalots up above the climb.

To retreat, belay the second up and walk off, or walk down to some anchors across an edge (to the South) and rap 40-50' to the ledge.

Location

This is the leftmost route on Cenotaph proper, which starts in and follows a black water stain. Te black rock is surprisingly textured and positive, but the holds on smooth horizontal edges are somewhat less frictiony.

Protection

There is not much worth placing in the harder climbing down low, a few nuts and small cams higher as the climbing gets easier. Bring up to a #3 Camalot for an anchor up top for a TR.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9+ X
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9+ X
I top roped this, and I saw no gear placements at the bottom as is described above. The climbing is kind of fun, but the route is very short. Sep 21, 2014