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Routes in 4. Shadow Castle
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Barbican TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cleft Bastion TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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East Bastion TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Keep, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Leaking Fissure TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Moat, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Portcullis TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 41.14529, -74.16477 |
| FA: | TR Ken Roberts 2015 |
| Page Views: | 746 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jan 1, 2016 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Variety of different climbing situations.
Up the corner, then step right onto the face. Up that into the alcove under the obvious roof. Finish through the roof.
. (Perhaps the roof can go at 5.8 after you find the sequence, and the middle face section can be done less than 5.8 if grab or step on tree branches.
But if you're going to climb the middle face only rock holds, and pull the roof on-sight with no hangs ... need to have your full 5.9 game on).
. (If the middle section is damp, can climb through with aid from tree branches to get up to play with the roof sequence).
Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
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