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Routes in 4. Shadow Castle

Barbican TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cleft Bastion TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Bastion TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Keep, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Leaking Fissure TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moat, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Portcullis TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: Jon Crefeld
Page Views: 50 total, 2/month
Shared By: kenr on Jan 1, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Up the obvious crack/flake to the top.

If ever you find it dry, it's actually a rather good climb with interesting holds and moves. But normally it's ... slimy.

Could do the top section avoiding much of the slime by first climbing the Barbican route (perhaps borrowing some holds from The Keep route) up toward the long roof, then traverse left to the crack/flake. Up that to the top.

Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

The usually wet dark section at left center of Shadow Castle wall, with a crack/flake in its midst which trends slightly right.

Protection

Top-Roping: see directions for top anchor for Shadow Castle area.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown.

Photos

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