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Routes in 4. Shadow Castle

Barbican TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cleft Bastion TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Bastion TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Keep, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Leaking Fissure TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moat, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Portcullis TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elevation: 562 ft
GPS: 41.145, -74.165 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 686 total · 27/month
Shared By: kenr on Dec 27, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

Description

South-facing (but shaded) wall on the upper cliff a ways northeast from Tower Wall. Just right of the Albion sector and just left of the Devonshire slab. There is a little "guard tower" (the Cleft Bastion) at the top of the cliff above the corner at the left side of the wall; to its right usually a wet area in the left center of the wall; and another (higher) little "guard tower" (the Keep) at the top of the right half of the wall, just left from above the obvious Moat gully; then farther right another obvious gully is the approximate boundary between Shadow Castle sector and the Devonshire slab sector.

Top-Roping: To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the base of the Devonshire slab, and continue past a steep loose gully and under the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff.

warning: The rock on and around this cliff has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Getting There

Because of difficult vegetation as of 2017, the easiest approach is to first go to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag, then walk about 165 feet left horizontally WSW under steep left-trending gully and Jumble Hotel crag, then under another steep gully and Devonshire slab, to the base of Shadow Castle.

How to get to Puzzle Palace: See the detailed instructions on the Perched Ramparts area page.

7 Total Climbs

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