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Cleft Bastion

5.9+, TR, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: TR Ken Roberts 2015
New York > Powerlinez > n. Perched Ramp… > 4. Shadow Castle
Warning Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance. DetailsDrop down

Description

Variety of different climbing situations.

Up the corner, then step right onto the face. Up that into the alcove under the obvious roof. Finish through the roof.

. (Perhaps the roof can go at 5.8 after you find the sequence, and the middle face section can be done less than 5.8 if grab or step on tree branches.
But if you're going to climb the middle face only rock holds, and pull the roof on-sight with no hangs ... need to have your full 5.9 game on).

. (If the middle section is damp, can climb through with aid from tree branches to get up to play with the roof sequence).

Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Left (west) edge of the wall, at the corner which is the junction of Shadow Castle with the Albion slab.

Protection

Top-Roping: see directions for top anchor for Shadow Castle area. Straightforward to set up top anchor with static line.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Baldy sector + Albion pillar:<br>
A - High Rustler<br>
B - Mambo<br>
C - Ballroom<br>
D - High Nowhere<br>
E - Chute<br>
F - Jitterbug<br>
G - Gunsight<br>
H - Devil's Elbow<br>
... Albion sector ...<br>
T - Extrovert<br>
U - Pillar Left<br>
W - Pillar Right<br>
X - Pillar East<br>
Y - Glory Gulch<br>
... Shadow Castle sector<br>
Z - Cleft Bastion<br>
<br>
[Hide Photo] Baldy sector + Albion pillar: A - High Rustler B - Mambo C - Ballroom D - High Nowhere E - Chute F - Jitterbug G - Gunsight H - Devil's Elbow ... Albion sector ... T - Extrovert U - Pill…
Shadow Castle sector: <br>
A - Cleft Bastion<br>
B - Portcullis<br>
C - Leaking Fissure<br>
D - Barbican<br>
E - The Keep<br>
F - The Moat<br>
G - East Bastion<br>
... Devonshire sector<br>
Z - Cream on My Scone<br>
[Hide Photo] Shadow Castle sector: A - Cleft Bastion B - Portcullis C - Leaking Fissure D - Barbican E - The Keep F - The Moat G - East Bastion ... Devonshire sector Z - Cream on My Scone
Albion sector:<br>
A - Extrovert Upper<br>
B - Little Dipper<br>
C - Big Dipper<br>
D - Glory Gulch<br>
E - Cecret Saddle<br>
F - Sidewinder<br>
G - So Long<br>
H - Last Chance<br>
L - Pillar Right<br>
M - Pillar East<br>
... Shadow Castle sector<br>
Z - Cleft Bastion<br>
[Hide Photo] Albion sector: A - Extrovert Upper B - Little Dipper C - Big Dipper D - Glory Gulch E - Cecret Saddle F - Sidewinder G - So Long H - Last Chance L - Pillar Right M - Pillar East ... Shad…