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Cleft Bastion
5.9+,
TR, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: TR Ken Roberts 2015
New York
> Powerlinez
> n. Perched Ramp…
> 4. Shadow Castle
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Variety of different climbing situations.
Up the corner, then step right onto the face. Up that into the alcove under the obvious roof. Finish through the roof.
. (Perhaps the roof can go at 5.8 after you find the sequence, and the middle face section can be done less than 5.8 if grab or step on tree branches.
But if you're going to climb the middle face only rock holds, and pull the roof on-sight with no hangs ... need to have your full 5.9 game on).
. (If the middle section is damp, can climb through with aid from tree branches to get up to play with the roof sequence).
Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Left (west) edge of the wall, at the corner which is the junction of Shadow Castle with the Albion slab.
Protection
Top-Roping: see directions for top anchor for Shadow Castle area. Straightforward to set up top anchor with static line.
Protection for trad Leading is unknown.
[Hide Photo] Baldy sector + Albion pillar: A - High Rustler B - Mambo C - Ballroom D - High Nowhere E - Chute F - Jitterbug G - Gunsight H - Devil's Elbow ... Albion sector ... T - Extrovert U - Pill…
[Hide Photo] Shadow Castle sector: A - Cleft Bastion B - Portcullis C - Leaking Fissure D - Barbican E - The Keep F - The Moat G - East Bastion ... Devonshire sector Z - Cream on My Scone
[Hide Photo] Albion sector: A - Extrovert Upper B - Little Dipper C - Big Dipper D - Glory Gulch E - Cecret Saddle F - Sidewinder G - So Long H - Last Chance L - Pillar Right M - Pillar East ... Shad…