Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Lead full Marty Molotoris + Ken Roberts 2017 Lead upper half Karel Hrbacek 2015 TR Ken Roberts + Jon Crefeld 2015
Page Views: 128 total · 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Jan 1, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route

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Variety of interesting moves leading up to a high rock feature.

Start left from below the right-facing flake which is just left of a tree with a four-inch base and two-inch trunk. Up a short slab, then up the flake passing the tree. Step right across a chimney onto the front of a four-foot wide block. Next up to the top of the block between the chimney and the Moat gully. Pass to the right of the higher right roof, then make a big step across left. Finish up to the top of the "guard tower".

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).


A ways left of the obvious gully at the right end of the Shadow Castle wall, below a long roof with a higher shorter roof above right of it, which is under the high "guard tower".


Top-Roping: see directions for top anchor for Shadow Castle area.

Leading: The upper section protects well with standard trad rack, but the flaring stuff in the lower half does not seem to take secure gear.
. . If want a more protectable (but less interesting) climb, consider starting instead with the lower half of the Moat gully.