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Routes in 4. Shadow Castle
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Barbican TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cleft Bastion TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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East Bastion TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Keep, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Leaking Fissure TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Moat, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Portcullis TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 41.14529, -74.16477 |
| FA: | Lead full Marty Molotoris + Ken Roberts 2017 Lead upper half Karel Hrbacek 2015 TR Ken Roberts + Jon Crefeld 2015 |
| Page Views: | 796 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jan 1, 2016 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Variety of interesting moves leading up to a high rock feature.
Start left from below the right-facing flake which is just left of a tree with a four-inch base and two-inch trunk. Up a short slab, then up the flake passing the tree. Step right across a chimney onto the front of a four-foot wide block. Next up to the top of the block between the chimney and the Moat gully. Pass to the right of the higher right roof, then make a big step across left. Finish up to the top of the "guard tower".
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
A ways left of the obvious gully at the right end of the Shadow Castle wall, below a long roof with a higher shorter roof above right of it, which is under the high "guard tower".
Protection
Top-Roping: see directions for top anchor for Shadow Castle area.
Leading: The upper section protects well with standard trad rack, but the flaring stuff in the lower half does not seem to take secure gear.
. . If want a more protectable (but less interesting) climb, consider starting instead with the lower half of the Moat gully.
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