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Routes in 4. Shadow Castle

Barbican TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cleft Bastion TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Bastion TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Keep, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Leaking Fissure TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moat, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Portcullis TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Lead full Marty Molotoris + Ken Roberts 2017 Lead upper half Karel Hrbacek 2015 TR Ken Roberts + Jon Crefeld 2015
Page Views: 101 total, 4/month
Shared By: kenr on Jan 1, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Variety of interesting moves leading up to a high rock feature.

Start left from below the right-facing flake which is just left of a tree with a four-inch base and two-inch trunk. Up a short slab, then up the flake passing the tree. Step right across a chimney onto the front of a four-foot wide block. Next up to the top of the block between the chimney and the Moat gully. Pass to the right of the higher right roof, then make a big step across left. Finish up to the top of the "guard tower".

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

A ways left of the obvious gully at the right end of the Shadow Castle wall, below a long roof with a higher shorter roof above right of it, which is under the high "guard tower".

Protection

Top-Roping: see directions for top anchor for Shadow Castle area.

Leading: The upper section protects well with standard trad rack, but the flaring stuff in the lower half does not seem to take secure gear.
. . If want a more protectable (but less interesting) climb, consider starting instead with the lower half of the Moat gully.

Photos

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