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Routes in Tranchant - Middle

Astéroïdes II T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Babylone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bagdad T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Denis de l'évidence S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fleure-soleil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hedge, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Interrogation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Feuilletée S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Melo Lolo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mésopotamie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Météorites T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Noire gluante S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pensée magique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Requiem pour un camionneur T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
RoadRunner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Symbiosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tite dernière Néolet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yin/Yang S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jean-Claude Néolet (P1:2009-10-29,P2:2010-07-31)
Page Views: 350 total · 10/month
Shared By: Eric Leclerc on Dec 28, 2015
Admins: Luc-514

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Access Issue: This cliffs is insured by the FQME Details

Description

1st pitch: 5.8, 4 bolts + anchor
The start might feel stiff if 5.8 is your limit.with the 2nd pitch
The climb is good but nothing compared

2nd pitch: 5.9 (5.10a/b to be confirmed due to broken hold), 14 bolts + anchor
A must do if you climb in Tranchant. From the first anchor, go left and up the dihedral. You will then negotiate a small roof by going a little right. Go up another dihedral and finish on the slab to get to the anchor.

Location

Starts on the face right of the slab face.

Protection

18 bolts + anchor

Photos

Sebastien MacDonald
Montreal, QC
  5.10a/b
Sebastien MacDonald   Montreal, QC
  5.10a/b
Update from last fall!

On the second pitch, a nice jug hold broke while performing the right traverse to clear the roof. This renders a harder route, adding a higher sense of exposure!

Proposed new Grade: 5.10a/b Apr 24, 2017
Pad Awan
Val David Qc
  5.9
Pad Awan   Val David Qc
  5.9
Selon moi la voie n’a rien de changé...still une belle 9! Sep 27, 2018

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