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Routes in Tranchant - Middle

Astéroïdes II T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Babylone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bagdad T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Denis de l'évidence S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fleure-soleil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hedge, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Interrogation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Feuilletée S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lolo ? (à confirmer) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mésopotamie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Météorites T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Noire gluante S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pensée magique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Requiem pour un camionneur T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
RoadRunner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Symbiosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tite dernière Néolet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yin/Yang S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Socrate Badeau (fall 2015)
Page Views: 52 total, 3/month
Shared By: Eric Leclerc on May 19, 2016
Admins: Luc-514

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This cliffs is insured by the FQME Details

Description

Start by climbing Yin/Yang 5.6 then keep climbing above the anchor. Once you clip the first bolt after the anchor, downclimb and unclip the anchor to reduce drag. You will encounter a crux in a traverse. It's a long climb. A 70m rope will barely bring you down and make sure you tie a knot at the end of the rope. With a 60m rope, you can lower to the Yin/Yang anchor and then lower from there.

Location

Right above the easy route called Yin.

Protection

Lots of bolts. Bring at least 19 quickdraws.

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