Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 580 ft, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Royal Magnell & Kyle Willis / Nov 2015|
|Page Views:||868 total · 30/month|
|Shared By:||Royal on Nov 14, 2015|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionPitch 1: This is a bit of an approach pitch. Follow gully up to base of the crack system that begins the business pitch of the route. Mostly 4th class, till a large chockstone, tunnel behind this or climb a rail system to the left till one comes to a second chockstone. Climb over the second chockstone or the rock to its right and belay at a bushy ledge. 100 feet, 5.7.
Pitch 2: The business. Off the ledge climb a #2 handcrack and stem to get over a small wedged boulder. Leave the crack and climb around a bush growing in the crack via thin face holds on nice varnish slab. Continue up left leaning #1 handcrack either via jamming or laybacking. Continue up crack as it quickly widens to #5s, and climb twenty feet of perfectly parallel tipped out #6 off width. A #3 big bro would be perfect here. It is possible to layback this. Climb the beautifully smooth varnished squeeze chimney. Without large big bros or valley giants a very large runout is necessary. The easiest way to climb the chimney is right side in and to go all the way back into the chimney. Climb the chimney past some smallish chockstones reaching a ledge large enough for two climbers. 200 feet 5.10
Pitch 3: The elevator shaft pitch. Climb up crack via stemming and face moves to a hole created by a large chockstone reminiscent of Frogland and tunnel through to the ledge created by the mass of blocks. These blocks are more stable than they appear from below. Belay at spacious ledge formed by blocks and enjoy the view. 60 feet 5.9
Pitch 4: Either climb the off width directly above the belay (5.10) or climb the horizontal slab ramp on the right (5.7) further back from the belay. If one chooses the second option a nasty swinging fall is possible but the climbing is easy, the only gear is a decent horizontal #6 in a hueco. Follow the crack / gully system further up on heavily huecoed rock (5.7) through a few bushes. Belay at a long ledge. 160 feet 5.7 or 5.10
Pitch 5: Walk to chimney in the back of the ledge and climb it to the top. No gear. If one went further back into the chimney gear is possible but it may be harder climbing. 60 feet 5.7
If one squeezes all the way back in the chimney, the optional gear larger than #6 might not be necessary. I led it with nothing larger a BD #6 and wanted bigger gear but I stayed too far out in the chimney and had my left side in, which made it harder.
My partner and I have some disagreement about the grade. He says 5.10b/c and I say 5.10 - . Climb it and let us know. I think its a pretty good route but Im rather biased. The business pitch is excellent, if a little spicy. The chimney has stellar varnished rock reminiscent of Epinephrine but much tighter. Larry DeAngelo and John Wilder attempted this line a long time ago and bailed perhaps 50 feet into pitch 2. Larry couldnt remember why they bailed, but we found his bail hex the only sign of previous climbers. Larry encouraged us to give it a go. His encouragement was a big reason we finally did the route. Big thanks Larry!
LocationApproach: continue up canyon on cliff band past Purblind Pillar to base of route. This route is before Lean Lady.
Walk off same as Lean Lady and all other routes on Angel Food wall.