Type: Trad, 580 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Royal Magnell & Kyle Willis / Nov 2015
Page Views: 1,073 total · 29/month
Shared By: Royal on Nov 14, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Pitch 1: This is a bit of an approach pitch. Follow gully up to base of the crack system that begins the business pitch of the route. Mostly 4th class, till a large chockstone, tunnel behind this or climb a rail system to the left till one comes to a second chockstone. Climb over the second chockstone or the rock to its right and belay at a bushy ledge. 100 feet, 5.7.

Pitch 2: The business. Off the ledge climb a #2 handcrack and stem to get over a small wedged boulder. Leave the crack and climb around a bush growing in the crack via thin face holds on nice varnish slab. Continue up left leaning #1 handcrack either via jamming or laybacking. Continue up crack as it quickly widens to #5s, and climb twenty feet of perfectly parallel tipped out #6 off width. A #3 big bro would be perfect here. It is possible to layback this. Climb the beautifully smooth varnished squeeze chimney. Without large big bros or valley giants a very large runout is necessary. The easiest way to climb the chimney is right side in and to go all the way back into the chimney. Climb the chimney past some smallish chockstones reaching a ledge large enough for two climbers. 200 feet 5.10 –

Pitch 3: The elevator shaft pitch. Climb up crack via stemming and face moves to a hole created by a large chockstone reminiscent of Frogland and tunnel through to the ledge created by the mass of blocks. These blocks are more stable than they appear from below. Belay at spacious ledge formed by blocks and enjoy the view. 60 feet 5.9

Pitch 4: Either climb the off width directly above the belay (5.10) or climb the horizontal slab ramp on the right (5.7) further back from the belay. If one chooses the second option a nasty swinging fall is possible but the climbing is easy, the only gear is a decent horizontal #6 in a hueco. Follow the crack / gully system further up on heavily huecoed rock (5.7) through a few bushes. Belay at a long ledge. 160 feet 5.7 or 5.10

Pitch 5: Walk to chimney in the back of the ledge and climb it to the top. No gear. If one went further back into the chimney gear is possible but it may be harder climbing. 60 feet 5.7


If one squeezes all the way back in the chimney, the optional gear larger than #6 might not be necessary. I led it with nothing larger a BD #6 and wanted bigger gear – but I stayed too far out in the chimney and had my left side in, which made it harder.
My partner and I have some disagreement about the grade. He says 5.10b/c and I say 5.10 - . Climb it and let us know. I think it’s a pretty good route but I’m rather biased. The business pitch is excellent, if a little spicy. The chimney has stellar varnished rock reminiscent of Epinephrine but much tighter. Larry DeAngelo and John Wilder attempted this line a long time ago and bailed perhaps 50 feet into pitch 2. Larry couldn’t remember why they bailed, but we found his bail hex – the only sign of previous climbers. Larry encouraged us to give it a go. His encouragement was a big reason we finally did the route. Big thanks Larry!


Approach: continue up canyon on cliff band past Purblind Pillar to base of route. This route is before Lean Lady.

Walk off same as Lean Lady and all other routes on Angel Food wall.


Rack: doubles BD 0.5 - #6 / recommended #3, #4, & #5 Big Bros or valley giants (would eliminate the R rating)
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
After Larry gave it a go, I went up to have a look. I bailed because I wasn't willing to lead up that pitch without any gear and we couldn't tell if there was any way up and off it from there- I was worried we'd get to the top of that thing and have to downclimb it. It was a pretty daunting crack, as I recall. I climbed perhaps 50 or 60' up the pitch until the #6 tipped out and then ultimately down climbed to some point and lowered, i think. Really cool looking feature, I'm glad someone finally went and did it.

Nice work- i've always wanted to go back and do it, good to know it goes at a reasonable grade! Nov 14, 2015
Santa Rosa, CA
Royal   Santa Rosa, CA
Thanks John! It's nice to hear from you. In the interest of full disclosure Kyle did rap the route to make sure it went. Above the off width he removed one block and would have likely injured or killed one of us, so while not the proudest ethically I think that was a good idea. Kyle going out there and putting in the work scouting the line gave us an edge you and Larry didn't have. It was still quite scary for me, but I think it's a cool line and I hope folks enjoy it. Nov 15, 2015
Flava Flav
Kirkland, Washington
  5.10 PG13
Flava Flav   Kirkland, Washington
  5.10 PG13
If you just wanted to rap off of the top of p3, I think you could on the other side of the tower. I believe I saw a possible thread around a huge chockstone (or a nut or two) just as it drops off the right side. Would probabaly belay over there and jump on it first. Double ropes should get you down, I rapped a single line from above the slab section on p4 down to the beginning of P2, then you'd have to downclimb the approach pitch. Nov 16, 2015