Foolish Man, Foolish Woman
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||FRA: Kyle Willis, Royal Magnell, Jodi Tallo|
|Page Views:||339 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Flava Flav on Jun 22, 2016|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThere is a pitch Royal and I did literally inside the mountain (Foolish Man) that probably was never done, I will describe that later on. The pitches above the giant chockstone could have also be unascended,'but we are not sure. The route name pertains to certain dubious anchors built by some persons on other routes that are to remain nameless, but perhaps are included in the FRA description...
Just to the right of Purblind Pillar is the gigantic gaping chimney system which is accessed via the same approach as Fleeting Boldness. (Foolish Woman) Up some class 4 ramps on good rock to the terrace, then find your way easily to the base of the chimney system. The 4th Class climbing is beautiful, with fantastic varnished huecos on both walls. Some might want a rope as bulges and some smears would cause a bad fall. Belay as the chimney gets shorter and the angle steepens, just before it turns to the right. 200+- ft
p2 Preparing for an easy squeeze and the unexpected, pop through and go right, leading up a low angle beautiful varnished pocketed face, and then an ever hardening well protected chimney. Belay at a boulder with a thread. Hint: clip rope directly to the thumb loops of big cams here, or the rope will reorient the cams. 5.8- 110 ft
Scramble up into the cathedral-style room, look back outside and the big boulder and corner above your thread and to the right is where the route continues. Inside the mountain behind you is another pitch not part of the route.
P3 after a small bulge, a fun corner with hidden holds brings you to another varnished slab. 5.7 100ft
P4 A slippery looking slab with a corner that widens into a chimney. A short section up to where the chimneys pinches off and you get gear again. A horozontal .75 protects the face moves up to the tree on the pocketed slab. If you clip the fixed hex you've gone too far up the corner. Kind of scary looking climbing above the slab, but short. After going up the face and slinging the tree, it's all scrambling from here to the top. My least favorite top out of any route on the wall. 200 +- ft 5.8
Back to the hidden pitch....
After pitch two, if you head up into the big room, climb a short 10 ft chimney to another ledge. Up the overhanging OW/chimney (Foolish Man) with no bottom up and with hard squeeze moves up to a talus ramp in a chimney. As the ramp dissipates and the chimney is vertical and with few weaknesses, continue up and eventually towards the outside of the chimney to a big chockstone and thread. A single 60 or 70 will require rapping off a deadman anchor, and double ropes would get you down ok. You can see the actual route outside the top of the chimney, but getting there is kind of impossible without some shenanigans. A strenuous and scary lead. 5.9
If it wasn't for the crappy top out this route would be bad ass. The first 4th class pitch will have you telling your partner how awesome it is, and they will describe that they cannot understand you and to repeat yourself.... The enclosed nature of the route was great. More squeeze chimneys than wide chimneys, and the other pitches are pretty cool as well. Great rock!