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Routes in Angel Food Wall

Beheaded Burro T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eigerwand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fleeting Boldness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Foolish Man, Foolish Woman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobies for Gumbies T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Group Therapy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Healy's Haunted House T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X
Killin' Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lean Lady T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Purblind Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rebel Within T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy Hole T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stilgar's Wild Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tele-vision T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: FRA: Kyle Willis, Royal Magnell, Jodi Tallo
Page Views: 411 total · 15/month
Shared By: Flava Flav on Jun 22, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

There is a pitch Royal and I did literally inside the mountain (Foolish Man) that probably was never done, I will describe that later on. The pitches above the giant chockstone could have also be unascended,'but we are not sure. The route name pertains to certain dubious anchors built by some persons on other routes that are to remain nameless, but perhaps are included in the FRA description...

Just to the right of Purblind Pillar is the gigantic gaping chimney system which is accessed via the same approach as Fleeting Boldness. (Foolish Woman) Up some class 4 ramps on good rock to the terrace, then find your way easily to the base of the chimney system. The 4th Class climbing is beautiful, with fantastic varnished huecos on both walls. Some might want a rope as bulges and some smears would cause a bad fall. Belay as the chimney gets shorter and the angle steepens, just before it turns to the right. 200+- ft

p2 Preparing for an easy squeeze and the unexpected, pop through and go right, leading up a low angle beautiful varnished pocketed face, and then an ever hardening well protected chimney. Belay at a boulder with a thread. Hint: clip rope directly to the thumb loops of big cams here, or the rope will reorient the cams. 5.8- 110 ft

Scramble up into the cathedral-style room, look back outside and the big boulder and corner above your thread and to the right is where the route continues. Inside the mountain behind you is another pitch not part of the route.

P3 after a small bulge, a fun corner with hidden holds brings you to another varnished slab. 5.7 100ft

P4 A slippery looking slab with a corner that widens into a chimney. A short section up to where the chimneys pinches off and you get gear again. A horozontal .75 protects the face moves up to the tree on the pocketed slab. If you clip the fixed hex you've gone too far up the corner. Kind of scary looking climbing above the slab, but short. After going up the face and slinging the tree, it's all scrambling from here to the top. My least favorite top out of any route on the wall. 200 +- ft 5.8

Back to the hidden pitch....

After pitch two, if you head up into the big room, climb a short 10 ft chimney to another ledge. Up the overhanging OW/chimney (Foolish Man) with no bottom up and with hard squeeze moves up to a talus ramp in a chimney. As the ramp dissipates and the chimney is vertical and with few weaknesses, continue up and eventually towards the outside of the chimney to a big chockstone and thread. A single 60 or 70 will require rapping off a deadman anchor, and double ropes would get you down ok. You can see the actual route outside the top of the chimney, but getting there is kind of impossible without some shenanigans. A strenuous and scary lead. 5.9

If it wasn't for the crappy top out this route would be bad ass. The first 4th class pitch will have you telling your partner how awesome it is, and they will describe that they cannot understand you and to repeat yourself.... The enclosed nature of the route was great. More squeeze chimneys than wide chimneys, and the other pitches are pretty cool as well. Great rock!

Location

To the right of Purblind Pillar, accessed by scrambling up to terrace. Walk off standard AFW descent. You can bail cleanly from the big chockstone above P2 with a single 60 and some down climbing, very easy.

Protection

Single rack to 7" fixed gear includes some threads, a fixed hex on the last pitch. Not sure I ever used nuts, bring small cams.

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