All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > White Rock Spring > Angel Food Area > Seraphim Wall

Heaven Year Itch

Name: Heaven Year Itch
Rating: 3.0

5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Seraphim Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Virtuous Life T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Answered Prayer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Archangel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cherubim Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Echolalia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Fleeting Boldness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Foolish Man, Foolish Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Foolish Other T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fools Rush In Where Angels Fear to Tread T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ground Rule 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Heaven Year Itch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lean Lady T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Left Hand of God T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Method Fool T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Quick Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ride the Wind T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Torched by an Angel T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Turiel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 215 ft (65 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	36.16944, -115.49074
FA:	Chris Kelly, Bill Thiry, R. Michaelson (Spring 2021)
Page Views:	423 total · 10/month
Shared By:	William Thiry on Sep 1, 2022
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

This was the first route climbed on the wall, and it's a good one (2.5 stars). With a 70 meter rope you can do this in one long pitch, however 2 pitches is recommended to reduce rope drag and avoid the need for excessive gear / longer runouts.

Pitch 1: Start in the crack system 20 feet right of Archangel. Several sections in the crack offer thoughtful 5.8 climbing with tricky protection. Exit the crack on to exquisite black varnish and locate a bolted anchor on the right.

Pitch 2: Continue up and slightly left on the excellent varnish that is fun to climb but may require mildly runout sections. A 5.7 bulge offers a spicy little crux. Continue up and left, joining the Archangel route in the right-facing corner, and continue up 20 more feet to the bolted anchors at a small ledge on the left side of a huge hueco.

With a single 70 meter rope 2 raps get you to the ground. It is not recommended to rap this in one long rap with two ropes - the drag when pulling the ropes is near impossible.