Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches
GPS: 36.16944, -115.49074
FA: Joe Herbst, Jim Rosser 1974
Page Views: 396 total · 10/month
Shared By: William Elliot on Jun 27, 2023
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Description Suggest change

A mysterious and seldom-climbed line on the right side of Seraphim Wall. One of many obscure Joe Herbst routes tucked away in the canyon, there is very little information on this climb in the majority of the guidebooks available. These were the pitches as we did them:

Pitch 1 5.9, 160ft: Climb a 4th class chimney system to a bulge (we chose to climb this unroped and belay from below the bulge). Navigate the bulge with creative stemming and thin crack technique. I found solid fingerlocks in a slight flare, they were thin hands for my partner.

Pitch 2 5.9, 130ft: Chimney up the squeeze formed by the wall behind you and a large sandy flake, no gear but solid. Once at the roof above, turn it using jams and OW technique, then ascend to a large cave formation above. Find a belay.

Pitch 3 5.9R, 200ft: There seemed to be a few ways to go about this, all appeared bold from below. My partner chose to chimney straight up and face climb the wall on climber's left. Hard R-rated pitch that way. There could be more gear if the leader chose to go through the mounds of bird poop in the right side corner.

Pitch 4 5.7, 210ft: Shuffle up an easy chimney to a short but fun offwidth section, heel-toe cams and chickenwings. Once at the top of this corner, pull left (avoiding the moss if possible) onto the face and make your way up ~40 feet of unprotected slab to the top of the formation.

Note: the last two pitches were quite long, if you don't have a 70m I'd recommend breaking them up into 3.

Descent: A short hike climbers left and back leads to the regular descent gully for an easy and beautiful walkoff.

Location Suggest change

Directly left of Fleeting Boldness between Ground Rule 7 and Turiel, on the far right side of the Seraphim Wall. Follow the main Angel Food trail until it makes sense to break off for this section of the wall. It should begin near a large white slab split by a crack system.

Protection Suggest change

Double to 4, single 5

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