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Cul-de-sac [Suggest Change]
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 4
votes
Routes in (CLOSED - SPRING 2018 RAPTOR NESTING) - Suburbia
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Big Fat Friend T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cowboys in Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cul-de-sac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Girl Next Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Killer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Little Man in Suburbia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Manifest Destiny T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nomadic Alternative T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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R.I.L.F. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Red Lock in Suburbia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft |
| FA: | Ian McEleney, Dale Apgar, BJ Cassell |
| Page Views: | 218 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ian McEleney on Nov 5, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description [Suggest Change]
Climb a hand crack to a ledge about 20 feet up. Follow the crack as it briefly widens to OW/chimney (easier than it looks) before pinching down to tight hands through a bulge. More hand jamming above gets you to the chains in an alcove.
Location [Suggest Change]
A couple minutes right of "Nomadic Alternative" and left of the big corner where Bloom claims "Honeypot" is. Chains are visible from below-left.
Protection [Suggest Change]
BD C4's
1 - .5
2 - .75
1 - #1
2 - #2
2 - #3
1 - #6
A #5 could be substituted for the 6.
1 - .5
2 - .75
1 - #1
2 - #2
2 - #3
1 - #6
A #5 could be substituted for the 6.
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