Type: Trad, Alpine, 130 ft
FA: FA: Me. FFA: Richard Mason
Page Views: 159 total · 24/month
Shared By: michael s on May 11, 2019
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - now open 10/11/19 Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: SEASONAL RAPTOR ISSUES - See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

This is 130' of a #5 Camalot crack in a right-facing corner. There's a pod where you can place a #6.  I got a tipped out #4 at the part where it cuts right (at about 90' or so) but it wasn't great.

It is less-than-vertical most of the way. The crux is probably in the first 10 feet or so, as that's the steepest part.

We used a 70 meter rope and it seemed just about right.

Location

You have to climb some short 5.9+ to get to the start of it.  I think the name is like "Walk in the Park" or something like that. It's not in Bloom's book, but is in the newest one.

You climb that thing and then a short scramble to the base of the crack. 

Protection

Bring all the #5 Camalots. How many depends on how comfortable you are at that size. Maybe like 7 or 8?. (Maybe more because you probably want an anchor at the bottom of the crack for the belayer). The top is a beautiful shiny anchor with 2 unnecessarily-long bolts connected to a huge rap-ring.

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