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Cul-de-sac

5.10+, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 7 votes
FA: Ian McEleney, Dale Apgar, BJ Cassell
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Suburbia
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb a hand crack to a ledge about 20 feet up. Follow the crack as it briefly widens to OW/chimney (easier than it looks) before pinching down to tight hands through a bulge. More hand jamming above gets you to the chains in an alcove.

Location

A couple minutes right of "Nomadic Alternative" and left of the big corner where Bloom claims "Honeypot" is. Chains are visible from below-left.

Protection

BD C4's
1 - .5
2 - .75
1 - #1
2 - #2
2 - #3
1 - #6
A #5 could be substituted for the 6.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ian, cruising the crux on the FA
[Hide Photo] Ian, cruising the crux on the FA