Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Steve Petro
Page Views: 383 total · 15/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Apr 5, 2019
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect March 1st 2021 Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: SEASONAL RAPTOR ISSUES - See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

An amazing line that should be 4 stars but unfortunately has a not so great finish.  Starts out on a hollow left trending flake with 4's deep inside.  Once the crack turns into a splitter it gradually narrows down through the sizes from 3's to the smallest cam you can find.  In my opinion the anchor should of been placed where the crack pinches to less than tips and there is a small hold to clip from (solid 5.12 to this point).  To get to the anchor you need to make ridiculously hard moves with no feet and nothing to hold onto, while the crack continues to pinch shut.  The last part of the route may be possible by some ubers out there, but I think most will have to resort to aid.  Also it is not actually known if this route has ever been freed?  

Note: The 12+ grade is just a guess and the actually grade is probably harder.

Location

Just left of Manifest Destiny.

Protection

Doubles from #4 to Black Alien. I would suggest bringing extra micro cams to help with aiding at the top.

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