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Routes in Suburbia
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A Long Way From Suburbia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Big Fat Friend T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Cowboys in Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cul-de-sac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Despot T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Girl Next Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Keepin' up with the Jones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Killer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Little Man in Suburbia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Manifest Destiny T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nomadic Alternative T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pizza Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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R.I.L.F. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Red Lock in Suburbia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.10 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Yard Sale (at the strip mall) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 38.18816, -109.61034 |
| FA: | Steve Petro |
| Page Views: | 870 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Apr 5, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
An amazing line that should be 4 stars but unfortunately has a not so great finish. Starts out on a hollow left trending flake with 4's deep inside. Once the crack turns into a splitter it gradually narrows down through the sizes from 3's to the smallest cam you can find. In my opinion the anchor should of been placed where the crack pinches to less than tips and there is a small hold to clip from (solid 5.12 to this point). To get to the anchor you need to make ridiculously hard moves with no feet and nothing to hold onto, while the crack continues to pinch shut. The last part of the route may be possible by some ubers out there, but I think most will have to resort to aid. Also it is not actually known if this route has ever been freed?
Note: The 12+ grade is just a guess and the actually grade is probably harder.
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