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Despot

5.12+, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Steve Petro
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Suburbia
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Description

An amazing line that should be 4 stars but unfortunately has a not so great finish.  Starts out on a hollow left trending flake with 4's deep inside.  Once the crack turns into a splitter it gradually narrows down through the sizes from 3's to the smallest cam you can find.  In my opinion the anchor should of been placed where the crack pinches to less than tips and there is a small hold to clip from (solid 5.12 to this point).  To get to the anchor you need to make ridiculously hard moves with no feet and nothing to hold onto, while the crack continues to pinch shut.  The last part of the route may be possible by some ubers out there, but I think most will have to resort to aid.  Also it is not actually known if this route has ever been freed?  

Note: The 12+ grade is just a guess and the actually grade is probably harder.

Location

Just left of Manifest Destiny.

Protection

Doubles from #4 to Black Alien. I would suggest bringing extra micro cams to help with aiding at the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Worked this for a day recently. Sweet line.
Im going to agree that if the anchor was right were there crack pinched past tips this would be a 4 star 5.12.
Anyway, take some tiny cams (000) or even nuts and aid the last little bit to the anchor for 5.12 c1.
Doubles 0.2 to #4 is good rack.
The "boulder" where the crack pinches out felt probably like v7, so solid 5.13, not sure about gear placements on point... Some nails hard moves right there.
Anchor is 2 drilled pins. Could use some love and new hardware. Nov 26, 2019