Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: Brady B.
Page Views: 742 total · 19/month
Shared By: Brady3 on Oct 26, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

Begin between two large detached flakes on the ground, move up through easy terrain to a band of crumbly rock. From here, work your feet up to reach the thin, vertical crack. This crack ends after 4 feet or so when you step right on thin holds (crux) to another thin crack. Follow this crack through the notch at the top directly above the start.

Location

This route is on the top section of rock above the other routes at Prestige. Climb any of the routes that get you to the anchor bolts for Slabs Direct, and look up the hill, it's the line done the middle on the next face (50 feet away?). Watch for cacti on the approach. Rap down Slabs Direct.

Protection

This route sews up nicely. It can be done on all passive as the thin cracks are ideal for nut placements, small cams add more options. You can bring a couple larger pieces (maybe #3 C4) depending on how much you want to protect the lower part before the crux. Bring plenty of cord or webbing for slinging boulders as an anchor. Scramble down to the right.

Photos

Theodore Morrow
Golden, Co
  5.8- PG13
Theodore Morrow   Golden, Co
  5.8- PG13
Not hard, good gear all the way up, didn't use single cam, though a #3 would be nice at the crux if you aren't solid on 5.8/5.7 There are features all along the face. Feb 18, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8+
The crux is at the bottom above the possible #3 placement. It is a short crux but it is right where the real climbing starts, so you have no warm-up before the hardest moves you will face. The route is ok but nothing great. Sep 19, 2016