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Routes in Prestige Worldwide Wall

Big Ellie's Little Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bolts & Hoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dragon V0 4
Drowned Rat T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Everything Gneiss V14 8B+
F**king Catalina Wine Mixer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Feeding The Rat TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaked Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gilded Lady, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kung Fu V2 5+
Mud Bath T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Night Hawk V2 5+
Offset Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Rat Too Many T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pack Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pine Tree Eliminate T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Protection Eliminate T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Delay T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rat Rod T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seams Thin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slabs Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slap or Die V3 6A
Stay Golden Pony Boy V3 6A
Tetherly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trailside Traverse V2 5+
Uptown Girl V2 5+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Deb Thompson, LP
Page Views: 301 total, 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 19, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This ascends the bushy crack to the offwidth finish left of Seams Thin and right of Feeding the Rat.

Start up an easy crack system passing 3 bushes. Continue up to the offwidth. There are still some loosish chockstones in the offwidth that refused to comeout on lead. A #4 Camalot fits just before the crux. A #5 Camalot (old style) would have been nice for the double Gaston offwidth finish. There really is no ideal anchor up above. You can get a decent threaded sling below a boulder.

Walk off left or traverse 4th class to the 2 bolt anchor to the right.

Most folks won't find this terribly appetizing.

Also, there is a left finish for the last 10 feet or so that is probably 9+. It may need a brushing.

Location

This is left of Seams Thin and right of Feeding the Rat.

Protection

Red Alien, #0.5, #0.75, #3, and #4 Camalots worked, although an old style #5 Camalot would have made the finish more secure.
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
We think it was a good move regardless. Nov 27, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
I did this climb for the second time today. The crux is really only one move in the offwidth, but it is something to do if you like climbing up rocks. Nov 27, 2016
Theodore Morrow
Golden, Co
  5.7 PG13
Theodore Morrow   Golden, Co
  5.7 PG13
I feel like I'm reasonably strong at sport climbing, this was my third trad lead ever, and I didn't have anything bigger than a C4 #3. I ran it out at the top and just laid back the offwidth, very easy layback with positive slopers. My offwidth technique is non-existent, but I never felt that this climb was hard, especially if you have gear for the offwidth. My gf found a great knee jam with a no hands rest right at the beginning of the offwidth. Feb 18, 2016
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
  5.9
ChefMattThaner   Lakewood, co
  5.9
The offwidth at the top is the crux. I suck at OW, so it felt like a 5.9 to me. #6 C4 was great to have for it Apr 12, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
The crux will take a new style C4 #5 above where you can place a #4, but if you want to "sew it up", I would use a #6. The wide part is only about a body length long. Sep 19, 2013