PRINT: Rock Climb Offset Crack, Golden

Offset Crack

5.8+, Trad, TR, 35 ft (11 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 8 votes
FA: Brady B.
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Prestige Worldwide Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.

Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM

Description

Begin between two large detached flakes on the ground, move up through easy terrain to a band of crumbly rock. From here, work your feet up to reach the thin, vertical crack. This crack ends after 4 feet or so when you step right on thin holds (crux) to another thin crack. Follow this crack through the notch at the top directly above the start.

Location

This route is on the top section of rock above the other routes at Prestige. Climb any of the routes that get you to the anchor bolts for Slabs Direct, and look up the hill, it's the line done the middle on the next face (50 feet away?). Watch for cacti on the approach. Rap down Slabs Direct.

Protection

This route sews up nicely. It can be done on all passive as the thin cracks are ideal for nut placements, small cams add more options. You can bring a couple larger pieces (maybe #3 C4) depending on how much you want to protect the lower part before the crux. Bring plenty of cord or webbing for slinging boulders as an anchor. Scramble down to the right.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up the climb.

The anchor area.

The crux area. The first piece is a #3 Camalot.

Another view looking up the climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Theodore Morrow
Golden, Co

5.8- PG13

Not hard, good gear all the way up, didn't use single cam, though a #3 would be nice at the crux if you aren't solid on 5.8/5.7 There are features all along the face. Feb 18, 2016

Jay Eggleston
Denver

5.8+

The crux is at the bottom above the possible #3 placement. It is a short crux but it is right where the real climbing starts, so you have no warm-up before the hardest moves you will face. The route is ok but nothing great. Sep 19, 2016