Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Prestige Worldwide Wall

Big Ellie's Little Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bolts & Hoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dragon V0 4
Drowned Rat T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Everything Gneiss V14 8B+
F**king Catalina Wine Mixer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Feeding The Rat TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaked Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gilded Lady, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Kung Fu V2 5+
Mud Bath T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Night Hawk V2 5+
Offset Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Rat Too Many T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pack Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pine Tree Eliminate T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Protection Eliminate T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Delay T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rat Rod T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seams Thin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slabs Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slap or Die V3 6A
Stay Golden Pony Boy V3 6A
Tetherly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trailside Traverse V2 5+
Uptown Girl V2 5+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Deb Thompson
Page Views: 216 total, 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 19, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a difficult-to-set-up toprope problem that has 2 interesting parts and might be led at a R rating.

There are 2 possible starts. The left start above a bush is a bit reachy for the height-challenged. The right start is noticeably easier. Continue up moderate terrain to the upper double crack system. Start in the left crack and move up and right into the other crack. Unfortunately, the topout doesn't have much for an anchor.

Maybe we could put in a bolted anchor if folks actually found this interesting.

Location

This is left of Seams Thin and goes up to a double crack finish. It is just left of the offwidth of One Rat Too Many.

Protection

We used a funky combo of an okay #4 BD wire at the top of the climb with a long (10') directional off a #1 Camalot and yellow Alien under a boulder to the left and a bomberang type threaded sling under a large boulder after topping out One Rat Too Many.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Hmm...got a top rope, who needs courage? Dec 4, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8+
Did this route a second time. A lead would be very serious. My top rope anchor was to the right of the top out and consisted of two long slings and a #1 Camalot. The crux is definitely near the top. Dec 4, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8+
I thought this was interesting, but I doubt the cliff will ever be popular, so a bolt anchor is not really needed. If this were somewhere like High Wire, it would likely become popular but not here. Sep 20, 2013