Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kevin Capps, 2012
Page Views: 539 total · 9/month
Shared By: Kevin P on Nov 28, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

Climb the right-angling crack to the right of Bolts and Hoes. It is harder and dirtier than it looks. It is fun if you like that sort of thing. We managed to get to the bolts for the sport routes on the left, not very fun. If anyone ever climbs this again, you might think about setting a belay at the tree and walking off.

Location

This is the crack to the right of Bolts and Hoes.

Protection

SR.

Photos

chinos  
Nice, I started up this when we were setting up the sport routes, but it was so dirty I downclimbed it. I never had time to get back and clean it and add an anchor (I live in NH). Glad to see someone did it. It looked pretty cool....

Give it a name! Dec 12, 2013
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
I climbed this and in 2012 after John put up the sport routes. I'm surprised anyone else got on this. I thought it was seriously dirty and felt more like 10-. Feb 2, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10-
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10-
This is not horribly dirty at this point, but near the top there is much loose, suspect, rock. It is good to anchor to the tree but a party can descend from the "Bolts and Hoes" anchor fairly easily. The walkoff is steep in places. Sep 24, 2016
Jake Web
Denver, CO
5.10a
Jake Web   Denver, CO
5.10a
I did it, it wasn't the dirtiest, but I didn't have enough large cams to protect the top and got VERY scared.

I recommend a #4 cam and maybe even a #5 cam as the crack gets really wide in the back. (I placed a #3, but it could easily walk). So yes, bring at least 1 #4 cam, and I'm thinking you could even find room for a 5! You will not regret it!

Otherwise, the climb was decent. The hardest part is the beginning, but my lack of gear caused a very very heady lead, so I won't give this stars until I can try again with a clear head. Jun 4, 2017