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Routes in West Buttress - South

Bug City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Claim Jumper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drew's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Enemy Combatant TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grunt and Moan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Layback and Relax TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poking Holes in the Firmament S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ryobi S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scorpio Rising S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sexcellent S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shock and Awe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sqench S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiers of Joy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chris Barnes, Vern Phinney, Mike Engle
Page Views: 330 total, 12/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Aug 17, 2015
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Friction up and over an early overlap, continue up the slab towards the cedar tree and pull across a flake edge to a steeper patina line to the anchors under an overhanging dihedral. Above this is the 2nd pitch of Tiers of Joy. It was discovered after the fact that Ryobi loosely followed some sections of the somewhat runout original Tiers of Joy first pitch. Brad Shilling (FA of Tiers of Joy and climbing ranger at the time) was notified immediately of the potential retrobolting and he gave his blessing to the new line. It can now be used as an approach pitch to the excellent 2nd pitch of Tiers of Joy (5.10 full on trad).

Location

Fun slab left of "Poking Holes in the Firmament". Climbs a well bolted line right of an obvious small tree about 1/3 the way up. One 60 meter rope to rappel to the ground.

Protection

8 or 9 quickdraws

Photos

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