Type: Sport, 82 ft (25 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,388 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jun 6, 2011 · Updates
Admins: GRK, Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Due to COVID 19, please be respectful of the residents of Almo. Wear a mask when indoors at places like Rock City or the Visit. (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP Details

Description

The striking and enjoyable arête just left of the classic Shock and Awe is, in my opinion, just as classic due to the position and crux moves. But then again, I'm a huge fan of arêtes and airy, exposed climbing. If you're like me in that respect, you're sure to enjoy this fine line.

From the same big ledge belay for Shock and Awe, head slightly down and left to get to the start of the arête. Clip a couple of bolts from good holds to a small roof/bulge. Figure out how best to pull this bulge and then clamber up the tiny dihedral past a few more bolts to a good ledge below the obvious arête crux above.

Slap and heel hook the arête and pull through a few committing moves to the great clip hold above the crux allowing you to get established in the huge hueco just right of the arête. Take a moment to enjoy the airy and exposed position before making the final moves to the anchor.

According to Bingham's book, the 5.11c crux can be avoided by going far right of the huge hueco near the crux. I didn't try this and think that would be quite a pendulum swing if you didn't make it. The crux moves are cool and well protected so you might as well keep it real on the arête.

The 11c moves require height and reach.  Move right along the ledge/slab to the right side of the hueco.  Climb the jugs and chicken heads on the right side. Make a long reach left to clip the bolt in the hueco. Either step into the hueco and stem upward or continue to hug the jugs on the right to gain the final bolt and anchors.

Location

Just left of Shock and Awe is this obvious bolted arĂȘte.

Protection

10 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Bingham's book description suggests medium cams for the cracks in the tiny dihedral about half way but I didn't feel the gear necessary. Note that a 70m rope won't get you all the way back down to terra firma from the big ledge below the start of these routes. With a 70m rope you can lower your partner all the way down (just barely) but the last person will have to downclimb in the corner below this route.  Carry two or three cams from 1-3 for the crack between the bolts.

Photos