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Routes in West Buttress - South
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Bug City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Claim Jumper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Drew's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Enemy Combatant TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Friction Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Layback and Relax TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Poking Holes in the Firmament S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ryobi S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scorpio Rising S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sexcellent S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shock and Awe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sqench S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tiers of Joy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 82 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 684 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Jun 6, 2011 |
| Admins: | grk10vq, Mike Engle |
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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING
Details
The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails.
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
See this link from the Access Fund for additional info and maps: accessfund.org/open-gate-bl…
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
See this link from the Access Fund for additional info and maps: accessfund.org/open-gate-bl…
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
The striking and enjoyable arête just left of the classic Shock and Awe is, in my opinion, just as classic due to the position and crux moves. But then again, I'm a huge fan of arêtes and airy, exposed climbing. If you're like me in that respect, you're sure to enjoy this fine line.
From the same big ledge belay for Shock and Awe, head slightly down and left to get to the start of the arête. Clip a couple of bolts from good holds to a small roof/bulge. Figure out how best to pull this bulge and then clamber up the tiny dihedral past a few more bolts to a good ledge below the obvious arête crux above.
Slap and heel hook the arête and pull through a few committing moves to the great clip hold above the crux allowing you to get established in the huge hueco just right of the arête. Take a moment to enjoy the airy and exposed position before making the final moves to the anchor.
According to Bingham's book, the 5.11c crux can be avoided by going far right of the huge hueco near the crux. I didn't try this and think that would be quite a pendulum swing if you didn't make it. The crux moves are cool and well protected so you might as well keep it real on the arête.
From the same big ledge belay for Shock and Awe, head slightly down and left to get to the start of the arête. Clip a couple of bolts from good holds to a small roof/bulge. Figure out how best to pull this bulge and then clamber up the tiny dihedral past a few more bolts to a good ledge below the obvious arête crux above.
Slap and heel hook the arête and pull through a few committing moves to the great clip hold above the crux allowing you to get established in the huge hueco just right of the arête. Take a moment to enjoy the airy and exposed position before making the final moves to the anchor.
According to Bingham's book, the 5.11c crux can be avoided by going far right of the huge hueco near the crux. I didn't try this and think that would be quite a pendulum swing if you didn't make it. The crux moves are cool and well protected so you might as well keep it real on the arête.
Protection
10 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Bingham's book description suggests medium cams for the cracks in the tiny dihedral about half way but I didn't feel the gear necessary. Note that a 70m rope won't get you all the way back down to terra firma from the big ledge below the start of these routes. With a 70m rope you can lower your partner all the way down (just barely) but the last person will have to downclimb in the corner below this route.
SL UT
Boise