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Routes in West Buttress - South
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Accidental Spice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ad-vance to Idaho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bug City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Claim Jumper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dot World S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drew's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Enemy Combatant TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Friction Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Genevive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Just Right S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Layback and Relax TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mantle Like A Madman TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Poking Holes in the Firmament S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ryobi S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scorpio Rising S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sexcellent S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shock and Awe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Squench S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tiers of Joy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 82 ft (25 m) |
| FA: | Trent Baker 2003 |
| Page Views: | 1,600 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Jun 6, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
The striking and enjoyable arête just left of the classic Shock and Awe is, in my opinion, just as classic due to the position and crux moves. But then again, I'm a huge fan of arêtes and airy, exposed climbing. If you're like me in that respect, you're sure to enjoy this fine line.
From the same big ledge belay for Shock and Awe, head slightly down and left to get to the start of the arête. Clip a couple of bolts from good holds to a small roof/bulge. Figure out how best to pull this bulge and then clamber up the tiny dihedral past a few more bolts to a good ledge below the obvious arête crux above.
Slap and heel hook the arête and pull through a few committing moves to the great clip hold above the crux allowing you to get established in the huge hueco just right of the arête. Take a moment to enjoy the airy and exposed position before making the final moves to the anchor.
According to Bingham's book, the 5.11c crux can be avoided by going far right of the huge hueco near the crux. I didn't try this and think that would be quite a pendulum swing if you didn't make it. The crux moves are cool and well protected so you might as well keep it real on the arête.
The 11c moves require height and reach. Move right along the ledge/slab to the right side of the hueco. Climb the jugs and chicken heads on the right side. Make a long reach left to clip the bolt in the hueco. Either step into the hueco and stem upward or continue to hug the jugs on the right to gain the final bolt and anchors.
From the same big ledge belay for Shock and Awe, head slightly down and left to get to the start of the arête. Clip a couple of bolts from good holds to a small roof/bulge. Figure out how best to pull this bulge and then clamber up the tiny dihedral past a few more bolts to a good ledge below the obvious arête crux above.
Slap and heel hook the arête and pull through a few committing moves to the great clip hold above the crux allowing you to get established in the huge hueco just right of the arête. Take a moment to enjoy the airy and exposed position before making the final moves to the anchor.
According to Bingham's book, the 5.11c crux can be avoided by going far right of the huge hueco near the crux. I didn't try this and think that would be quite a pendulum swing if you didn't make it. The crux moves are cool and well protected so you might as well keep it real on the arête.
The 11c moves require height and reach. Move right along the ledge/slab to the right side of the hueco. Climb the jugs and chicken heads on the right side. Make a long reach left to clip the bolt in the hueco. Either step into the hueco and stem upward or continue to hug the jugs on the right to gain the final bolt and anchors.
Protection
10 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Bingham's book description suggests medium cams for the cracks in the tiny dihedral about half way but I didn't feel the gear necessary. Note that a 70m rope won't get you all the way back down to terra firma from the big ledge below the start of these routes. With a 70m rope you can lower your partner all the way down (just barely) but the last person will have to downclimb in the corner below this route. Carry two or three cams from 1-3 for the crack between the bolts.
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