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Routes in West Buttress - South

Bug City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Claim Jumper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drew's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Enemy Combatant TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grunt and Moan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Layback and Relax TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poking Holes in the Firmament S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ryobi S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scorpio Rising S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sexcellent S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shock and Awe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sqench S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiers of Joy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 82 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 651 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jun 6, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

The striking and enjoyable arête just left of the classic Shock and Awe is, in my opinion, just as classic due to the position and crux moves. But then again, I'm a huge fan of arêtes and airy, exposed climbing. If you're like me in that respect, you're sure to enjoy this fine line.

From the same big ledge belay for Shock and Awe, head slightly down and left to get to the start of the arête. Clip a couple of bolts from good holds to a small roof/bulge. Figure out how best to pull this bulge and then clamber up the tiny dihedral past a few more bolts to a good ledge below the obvious arête crux above.

Slap and heel hook the arête and pull through a few committing moves to the great clip hold above the crux allowing you to get established in the huge hueco just right of the arête. Take a moment to enjoy the airy and exposed position before making the final moves to the anchor.

According to Bingham's book, the 5.11c crux can be avoided by going far right of the huge hueco near the crux. I didn't try this and think that would be quite a pendulum swing if you didn't make it. The crux moves are cool and well protected so you might as well keep it real on the arête.

Location

Just left of Shock and Awe is this obvious bolted arête.

Protection

10 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Bingham's book description suggests medium cams for the cracks in the tiny dihedral about half way but I didn't feel the gear necessary. Note that a 70m rope won't get you all the way back down to terra firma from the big ledge below the start of these routes. With a 70m rope you can lower your partner all the way down (just barely) but the last person will have to downclimb in the corner below this route.

Photos

Jesse Wees
Boise
Jesse Wees   Boise
Awesome bolder problem in the sky, but I have to agree with Brad... beautiful line, poor bolting. Mar 16, 2015
bheller
SL UT
5.11c R
bheller   SL UT
5.11c R
Yes, incredible position on the upper arete and awesome climbing. Skirting the crux requires climbing wayyy right of the arete, so I don't feel the finish is contrived. However, whoever bolted this line totally punted in two locations. The first is the runout above the second bolt where you get established under the roof- big nasty fall potential here (although unlikely)- and completely unnecessary. The second, and worse blunder of the two is the upper crux section- after clipping a really high bolt off a ledge, committing and bouldery moves do lead to a clipping stance with the bolt at your sternum. On lead without pre-clipped draws one could very easily blow these crux moves or the clip, and fall 12 feet or so- smashing onto the un-even ledge right below the crux. Ugly. The first bolt off the ledge should have been placed lower, with another bolt placed a bit higher (than the current high one) and this potential trauma would have been totally avoided. What a pity to tarnish a line so awesome. Optional cams for the handcrack at 3/4 height. Jun 30, 2014
I recently repeated this route and felt bad for giving it only 2 stars in my Castle Rocks guidebook. Contrary to Mike's comment,staying on the arete is the obvious line, and doing so makes "Claim Jumper" one of the best arete climbs at Castles/City. If you climb via the hueco (like I did on my first go), you know you are wimping out and missing the best part! Oct 13, 2011