Type: Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: Mike Engle, Chris Barnes, and Vernon Phinney
Page Views: 1,309 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Aug 17, 2015
Admins: GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1 one is a very fun outing of ever steepening patina until you pull the 5.10 crux at the final bulge. P2: step up right to the edge of the arete and make a desperate but well protected 5.11 move to gain a line of patina to the anchors. P3: A short but nice 5.7 pitch takes you to the top of the formation. One 60 meter rope will get you down in 3 rappels.

Location Suggest change

On the center of Castle West Buttress - South right of "Olypus Wrecks" and left of "Tiers of Joy" in Dave Bingam's Castle Rocks guidebook. From a deep gully on the ground,stem out quickly onto the face and generally follow a patina line staying just left of right trending crack to an arete major feature. One 60 meter rope will get you down in 3 rappels.

Protection Suggest change

About 12 quickdraws on 1st Pitch, about 9 on the 2nd, and 4 on the 3rd. Chain Anchors at the top of each pitch.