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Routes in West Buttress - South

Bug City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Claim Jumper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drew's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Enemy Combatant TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Friction Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Layback and Relax TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poking Holes in the Firmament S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ryobi S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scorpio Rising S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sexcellent S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shock and Awe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sqench S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tiers of Joy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mike Engle, Chris Barnes, and Vernon Phinney
Page Views: 421 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Aug 17, 2015
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details


P1 one is a very fun outing of ever steepening patina until you pull the 5.10 crux at the final bulge. P2: step up right to the edge of the arete and make a desperate but well protected 5.11 move to gain a line of patina to the anchors. P3: A short but nice 5.7 pitch takes you to the top of the formation. One 60 meter rope will get you down in 3 rappels.


On the center of Castle West Buttress - South right of "Olypus Wrecks" and left of "Tiers of Joy" in Dave Bingam's Castle Rocks guidebook. From a deep gully on the ground,stem out quickly onto the face and generally follow a patina line staying just left of right trending crack to an arete major feature. One 60 meter rope will get you down in 3 rappels.


About 12 quickdraws on 1st Pitch, about 9 on the 2nd, and 4 on the 3rd. Chain Anchors at the top of each pitch.


Mike Engle
Pocatello, Idaho
Mike Engle   Pocatello, Idaho  
It's a little bold of me to give it 3 stars but it really is "Sexcellent" ;-) Aug 17, 2015
TS Burton
Ogden, Utah
TS Burton   Ogden, Utah
A really nice addition to the area. Enjoyed the committing and airy 2nd pitch crux! As you contemplate the move, you may catch yourself wishing you were on the 5.7 route directly below. Sep 9, 2015
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Pretty darn hard move there on the second pitch. Not sure what I would call it, since I finally just grabbed the bolt. Apr 26, 2016

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