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Routes in West Buttress - South
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Accidental Spice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ad-vance to Idaho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bug City T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Claim Jumper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Drew's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Enemy Combatant TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Friction Pants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Genevive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Just Right S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Layback and Relax TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mantle Like A Madman TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Poking Holes in the Firmament S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ryobi S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scorpio Rising S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sexcellent S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shock and Awe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Squench S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tiers of Joy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Paul Tusting, 2003 |
| Page Views: | 413 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Morris on Oct 18, 2021 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
Climb the cool patina features tucked behind the tree up to the second bolt, then take a hard right and traverse past a couple more bolts keeping them at or above shoulder level until it's reasonable to head straight up again. Continue angling upward to the right up the featured slab, with gear placements available off to the left in the corner. Higher on the slab you'll find a thin crack with more options for gear before reaching the chains. Due to the traversing nature of the route, probably best to have a second clean the route.
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