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Routes in C. Middle and West Walls

Back on Track T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Belay Brothers Bounce Back, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blunt Arete to Exit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Buffalo Soldier S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Offwidth Corner T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Pirates S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Please Pick Up Your Trash T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Small Axe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Three Little Birds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Deb Thompson, Mike Endicott, LP
Page Views: 595 total, 21/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 24, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Thanks to Mike Moritz, Chuck Fitch, and Adam Huxley this climb has become much safer!

This is the inviting corner with an offwidth size through the easy part. It had an ominous flake capping its crux that belied belief that it remains unfallen. Thanks again to Mike, Chuck, and Adam it is now gone! This guillotine-like flake resisted some basic kicking, tugging, and pulling, but it seemed to be attached for now by a small lip at 5 o'clock and its left side. On the 1st go, it appeared unsafe to pull on, which resulted in attempts to skirt it to the left...unsuccessfully. A prybar pulled up allowed them to lever it off!

The flake's top did flex a bit.

On the first go, it was scaly, wet, and needed cleaning...which made skirting the flake feel 5.11. After cleaning on a dry day, Mike used the flake for one hold and thought it was 5.8, but that seemed too conservative to me.

Edit: I'll go try it again and rerate it when it gets warm enough to do so.

Location

This is to the right of The Belay Brothers Bounce Back and left of Small Axe.

Protection

A standard rack to a #4 Camalot (old size) plus a #5 (old size) Camalot and a #4 Bigbro (optional) were used.

Photos

Definitely a good 5.7 move getting off the ground and then nothing harder. As of 8/18/17 there is a Turkey Vulture nest on top of this route, and they are not happy to see people. Aug 22, 2017
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
This is a fun climb and there really is no offwidth climbing on it. A rack to a #3 is sufficient although you can place larger gear. Going to the anchors on "Belay Brothers" is a good thing to do. Aug 22, 2016
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Yes, it changed much after the flake was cleaned off. Before, we climbed around the flake not wanting to knock it off and kill either of us. Plus, it was seeping a bit. Jun 24, 2016
I thought it was notably easier than Belay Brothers. Jun 21, 2016
I cleaned the sketchy flake/chock with the help of Chuck and Adam and the JeffCo trail building team. It should be a fairly safe and enjoyable climb now. Nov 20, 2015