Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Endicott, LP
Page Views: 257 total · 6/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 24, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This was used as a means to get above the precarious flake on Offwidth Corner to see if it could be trundled. As a route, it has a bit of challenge to protecting it, an interesting move stepping up over a minor bulge (5.7 R), and an intimidating exit traverse on P2.

P1. Start in the alcove near the start of Small Axe. Place a green Alien in a crack to the left, slab upwards, get either a combo of iffy 0.1 and 0.2 Camalots or another iffy green Alien. You can move rightward to bigger holds or highstep over a tiny overlap (5.7 R). Move upwards on the blunt arete onto easier terrain and belay ~35' up above Offwidth Corner, 5.7 R.

P2. To exit, we moved up, traversed a boulder, gained a corner, then traversed rightward towards the anchors of Small Axe. Note, this may feel challenging for shorter climbers. A creative wire and downward blue Alien protects your second. Move downward a bit to the anchor for Small Axe, 5.9 PG-13.

Location

This starts on the blunt arete just to the left of Small Axe and right of The Belay Brothers Bounce Back.

Protection

P1 used a green Alien, #0.1 & #0.2 Camalots or another green Alien, #0.75, #1 Camalots. Anchors were a threaded sling and two wires.

P2 used #0.1 & #0.2 Camalots, #0.5 Camalot, wire, another cam, nut, blue Alien, and 24" slings.

Photos

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