All Locations > Colorado > Golden > Lookout Mtn Rd > Tiers of Zion > C. Lower Tier > C. Middle & W Walls

Blunt Arete to Exit

Name: Blunt Arete to Exit
Rating: 1.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13

Routes in C. Middle and West Walls

L › R R › L A › Z

	Back on Track T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
	Belay Brothers Bounce Back, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Blunt Arete to Exit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Buffalo Soldier S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Good Tidings S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Offwidth Corner T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Old Pirates S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Please Pick Up Your Trash T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Small Axe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Three Little Birds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	39.74393, -105.24208
FA:	Mike Endicott, LP
Page Views:	1,062 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Leo Paik on Jul 24, 2015
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This was used as a means to get above the precarious flake on Offwidth Corner to see if it could be trundled. As a route, it has a bit of challenge to protecting it, an interesting move stepping up over a minor bulge (5.7 R), and an intimidating exit traverse on P2.

P1. Start in the alcove near the start of Small Axe. Place a green Alien in a crack to the left, slab upwards, get either a combo of iffy 0.1 and 0.2 Camalots or another iffy green Alien. You can move rightward to bigger holds or highstep over a tiny overlap (5.7 R). Move upwards on the blunt arete onto easier terrain and belay ~35' up above Offwidth Corner, 5.7 R.

P2. To exit, we moved up, traversed a boulder, gained a corner, then traversed rightward towards the anchors of Small Axe. Note, this may feel challenging for shorter climbers. A creative wire and downward blue Alien protects your second. Move downward a bit to the anchor for Small Axe, 5.9 PG-13.

Location

This starts on the blunt arete just to the left of Small Axe and right of The Belay Brothers Bounce Back.

Protection

P1 used a green Alien, #0.1 & #0.2 Camalots or another green Alien, #0.75, #1 Camalots. Anchors were a threaded sling and two wires.

P2 used #0.1 & #0.2 Camalots, #0.5 Camalot, wire, another cam, nut, blue Alien, and 24" slings.