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Routes in C. Middle and West Walls

Back on Track T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Belay Brothers Bounce Back, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blunt Arete to Exit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Buffalo Soldier S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Offwidth Corner T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Pirates S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Please Pick Up Your Trash T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Small Axe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Three Little Birds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Endicott, LP
Page Views: 201 total, 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 24, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This was used as a means to get above the precarious flake on Offwidth Corner to see if it could be trundled. As a route, it has a bit of challenge to protecting it, an interesting move stepping up over a minor bulge (5.7 R), and an intimidating exit traverse on P2.

P1. Start in the alcove near the start of Small Axe. Place a green Alien in a crack to the left, slab upwards, get either a combo of iffy 0.1 and 0.2 Camalots or another iffy green Alien. You can move rightward to bigger holds or highstep over a tiny overlap (5.7 R). Move upwards on the blunt arete onto easier terrain and belay ~35' up above Offwidth Corner, 5.7 R.

P2. To exit, we moved up, traversed a boulder, gained a corner, then traversed rightward towards the anchors of Small Axe. Note, this may feel challenging for shorter climbers. A creative wire and downward blue Alien protects your second. Move downward a bit to the anchor for Small Axe, 5.9 PG-13.

Location

This starts on the blunt arete just to the left of Small Axe and right of The Belay Brothers Bounce Back.

Protection

P1 used a green Alien, #0.1 & #0.2 Camalots or another green Alien, #0.75, #1 Camalots. Anchors were a threaded sling and two wires.

P2 used #0.1 & #0.2 Camalots, #0.5 Camalot, wire, another cam, nut, blue Alien, and 24" slings.

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