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Routes in C. Middle and West Walls

Back on Track T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Belay Brothers Bounce Back, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blunt Arete to Exit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Buffalo Soldier S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Offwidth Corner T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Pirates S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Please Pick Up Your Trash T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Small Axe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Three Little Birds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Josh Pollock and Steve Grigel, July 2013
Page Views: 1,608 total · 47/month
Shared By: Josh on Mar 27, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

If you can get off the ground, you can probably finish this one. A broken hold on the intimidating opening moves to the lip of the overhang has made this climb harder than it was originally. But take heart-- the stout start leads to an upper face that is consistent at the 5.8-5.9 level and worthwhile. Protect your leader by belaying low and close for the first bolt especially, as the ground beneath is a bit angular.

Location

This is located just to the left of the pine tree growing against the wall.

Protection

7 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Preston
fort collins,colorado
 
Preston   fort collins,colorado
 
I found this strange route to be a hard V2+ boulder problem to the second bolt (not using tree), and then it's over...super easy climbing to the anchors.... If this route was sustained, it would be 5.11. Oct 21, 2017
Jason Actis
  5.11- PG13
Jason Actis  
  5.11- PG13
The sharp boulder at the base not only created painful consequences for struggling on the unexpectedly difficult first moves of the route, but it was also later taken up as a lounging spot for the largest rattlesnake I've ever seen. Aug 29, 2017
Aron Roberts
Denver, CO
Aron Roberts   Denver, CO
David Reuille, I'm one of the guys who were talking to you on Saturday about the tree and how the routes name may be the clue to your grading question! We are returning on Thursday to give it a go. Will report back! Apr 11, 2017
David Reuille
Denver, CO
5.11d
David Reuille   Denver, CO
5.11d
Super confused by this route. Comment above mentions breaking a hold. I found the opening moves to be hard 5.11 Apr 8, 2017
Dougald MacDonald  
  5.11a
Harder than the 11a that's 50 feet to the right. Mar 10, 2017
Josh
Golden, CO
 
Josh   Golden, CO
 
Agreed that the now-smaller hold just above the first bolt makes it a bit harder, but that hold still offers a positive edge for fingertips and is pretty valuable for the opening sequence, at least for me. Jun 12, 2016
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.10
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.10
Sorry, we snapped off most of the hold just above the 1st bolt when barely pulling on it. It makes it a wee bit harder. This is harder for short folks or those who prefer slabs. May 15, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10+
This route is enjoyable once you figure out the difficult crux at the bottom. There is a great jug by the second bolt, but getting to it is not easy. Make sure you are warmed up before doing this climb. Mar 29, 2015