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Routes in C. Middle and West Walls

Back on Track T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Belay Brothers Bounce Back, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blunt Arete to Exit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Buffalo Soldier S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Offwidth Corner T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Pirates S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Please Pick Up Your Trash T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Small Axe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Three Little Birds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Josh Pollock and Jake Waples, June 2013
Page Views: 1,380 total · 40/month
Shared By: Josh on Mar 27, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The Belay Brothers Bounce Back is a fine mixed line. Start in a crack/flake system right of the pine tree growing against the wall. This takes good gear through the lower portion and then transitions to bolts only on the slabby, upper face. Begin with an undercling/lieback on the prominent flake (place a green Camalot here right away or even before you start). Fire out right and stand up to lieback the flake further up (crux). Work up the flake/crack system, which stays steep. Just before the crack ends, it is wide hands/fists. The transition out of the crack and up to the first bolt is tricky, so stay awake. The upper face eases considerably as you approach the anchors.

Location

This is just to the right of the tree growing against the Middle Wall. Start on a prominent, right-facing flake.

Protection

Gear + 4 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. Camalots from #0.5 to #3 are useful (and a #4 in the wide upper part of the crack could make things easier), but alternative placements, including small cams and nuts, exist for just about every one of the larger placements.

Photos

Noah Yetter
Lakewood, CO
  5.8+
Noah Yetter   Lakewood, CO
  5.8+
The start is height-dependent and very strenuous. You can indeed pre-place a green Camalot, but placing a second piece while laybacking the flake is super hard. If you have a medium-sized hex (like a red or gold Torque Nut maybe) you can slot it around the right edge of the flake without having to visually check the placement, as it will sit in a recess from which it could not possibly come out. The largest passive I had was a #11 Wallnut and this was too small. Once you are above the flake, the remainder of the route is quite easy. May 7, 2017
Alex Mason
Denver
  5.8+
Alex Mason   Denver
  5.8+
Be careful on the start! Fun route. Sep 17, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8+
I led this recently and only placed cams. I used two #2 Camalots and a #4 as well. I also placed the #0.75 Camalot and a #2 Friend. I did not use any nuts. It is a little tricky getting above the last gear placement to the first bolt. May 13, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8+
The crux is definitely near the bottom, as described in the description. The route is fun, and it is a good warm up before doing harder routes in the area. Mar 29, 2015