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Routes in Left of Peapod

Arms Control S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
At Play On the Slabs of The Lord TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Booze S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Chips and Salsa S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
It Works Better Broken TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
King Pin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Pin Direct TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lightning Crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nothing Special T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orangahang T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhung S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Peabody T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peon U S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Perineal Massage T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Porous Tactics S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Project S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Project 2 S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Ride The Razor's Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sober T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stegosaurus T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Therapeutic Recreation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unknown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Vagabond S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: F.A. Rob Settlemire, Gary Adams F.F.A Jim Yates, John Bald
Page Views: 317 total, 10/month
Shared By: Muscrat on Jun 7, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

An absolute gem. A zigzagging finger to hand to fist crack (5.9+) leads to the money; a thin finger bolt of lightning arching straight up to the hidden chains. One of the most obvious and eye catching lines on the crag.

Location

Look for the zigzag crack just past the overhung cobbled face in the large alcove up and towards the end of the rock band. Easily seen as you approach the climb. There is a small tree on a ledge where the substantial chains will be found. Easily rapped.

Protection

Standard rack to 3". Doubles .3-.75. Slings and nuts. Chains for anchor.

Photos

Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
The crack below is ok. The finger crack up high is awesome but I thought it was a one move wonder... pretty stiff move though. There is more than just a finger crack up there ;) Sep 29, 2017
Muscrat

 
Muscrat    
 
This is one of the greats. Great tick, much harder for those of fat fingers, the upper crack just gets thinner and thinner. I took triples of aliens black to yellow (.3-1). If you can't get your fingers in the crack, you are mighty fucked. Thin fingered friend and follower went right through where i cursed and struggled.
Afterwards,be sure to play on the slabs below the chains. No pro, but fun technical wandering. Jun 7, 2015