Eagle Peak Rock Climbing

A long band of single pitch volcanic routes, everything from 5.4 to 5.13+ projects, trad, sport, and toprope. This is a great place to beat the heat of the lower elevations and still be in the sun.

All lines can be toproped, although setting anchors on some can be difficult and/or dangerous.

Many of the “sport routes” here are only so in the literal sense. Being that they were put in top down. But they by no means fall under the modern term of “sport”. These routes were developed near the dawn of sport climbing. Many of which are 25+ feet to the first bolt often past difficult climbing and have copious amounts of space between bolts. Use good judgement. 

Depending on the snow load, some of the bases of these climbs can be under 10' of snow in the spring. The springtime approach can be arduous, slick snow/ice to post-holing. The descent can be exciting, too. Walking sticks are very helpful. Figure 25 minutes from the car to the base. Don't forget the sunscreen!

Some climbs require gear anchors. Walk off to climbers right (easy 3rd class). For climbs far to the left there is a infrequently used 3rd class descent. As one becomes more familiar with the crag, one can find the bolted belays, and rap from these.

Once again, kudos and thanks to Paul Bernard for his great guide book "Rock Climbs of Northern California" without which i would not know half the names and info on these climbs.

Many of the bolts on Eagle Peak are old, rusty time-bombs. Do not assume because they are there they are safe. Use discretion and common sense.