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Routes in Left of Peapod

Arms Control S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
At Play On the Slabs of The Lord TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Booze S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Chips and Salsa S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
It Works Better Broken TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
King Pin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Pin Direct TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lightning Crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nothing Special T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orangahang T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhung S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Peabody T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peon U S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Perineal Massage T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Porous Tactics S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Project S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Project 2 S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Ride The Razor's Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sober T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stegosaurus T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Therapeutic Recreation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unknown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Vagabond S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 75 ft
FA: Todd Swain (rope solo)
Page Views: 77 total, 3/month
Shared By: Muscrat on Jun 4, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Rope solo by Todd Swain in 1988 (!) this is a wonderful, pumpy, heady line. First bolt is 20' off the deck, very stiff getting to it. The bolts are old and rusty. Chain anchor is easily toproped. Starting in the crack to the right (Peapod) makes the line a little easier and the first bolt a lot closer.

Location

The vertical wall between Peapod and Peabody. Starting in the center adds some difficulty.

Protection

5 (rusty) bolts

Photos

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Daniel Siegel
Portola, CA
 
Daniel Siegel   Portola, CA
 
TRed this after leading Peapod. A great climb that is "in your face" almost the whole way. I can confirm the above information regarding the bolts. I would not trust these to hold a fall. I believe they are 1/4" bolts. Yikes!
If the bolts are replaced, it would be a fun and somewhat committing lead. Aug 19, 2016
Muscrat

 
Muscrat    
 
As with most of the bolted lines at the rockband, i would not want to fall on these. Hangers look homemade, the bolts are rusty and old and who knows how deep? Great line though, really fun warm up for some of the harder things here. Can really bake in the summer, even at the altitude! Jun 4, 2015