Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: Rob Settlemire, Gary Adams
Page Views: 402 total · 9/month
Shared By: Muscrat on Jun 4, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Muscrat, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start up difficult to protect easy boulder problem to a low angle bushy crack. at approximately 40' the business starts. Fingers to hands to offhands/fists, a left arching steep crack you wish went on for 1,000'! Just beautiful. Much harder then 10.b if you just use the crack. Eats nuts.

Location

The orange overhanging left arching crack, easily seen from the lower trail. The lower section occasionally needs pruning, can be very bushy.

Protection

Standard rack to 3". Doubles 1-3? Nuts and offset nuts work well. Shoulder slings, and a brush to clean if it is the first lead of the year. There are now anchors on top (you have to pull the lip to reach them, save a #2 for the lip)

Photos

Muscrat

  5.10b
Muscrat    
  5.10b
Be aware that you are in a national park, and the removal of living plants is a no-no. This route gets overgrown easily, the lower easy section (5.7?) can be made difficult to protect with dirt and plants in the crack. Leader should carry a nut tool to clean the crack for pro. Hey, it's alpine!
This is a great line, fun to do laps on. It is definitely harder than 10.b if you do not use the face holds. Also fun to top rope the face below and to the left of the crack. 11? Jun 4, 2015