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Routes in Left of Peapod

Arms Control S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
At Play On the Slabs of The Lord TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Booze S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Chips and Salsa S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
It Works Better Broken TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
King Pin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Pin Direct TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lightning Crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nothing Special T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orangahang T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhung S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Peabody T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peon U S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Perineal Massage T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Porous Tactics S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Project S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Project 2 S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Ride The Razor's Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sober T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stegosaurus T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Therapeutic Recreation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unknown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Vagabond S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: Rob Settlemire, Gary Adams
Page Views: 337 total · 11/month
Shared By: Muscrat on Jun 4, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start up difficult to protect easy boulder problem to a low angle bushy crack. at approximately 40' the business starts. Fingers to hands to offhands/fists, a left arching steep crack you wish went on for 1,000'! Just beautiful. Much harder then 10.b if you just use the crack. Eats nuts.

Location

The orange overhanging left arching crack, easily seen from the lower trail. The lower section occasionally needs pruning, can be very bushy.

Protection

Standard rack to 3". Doubles 1-3? Nuts and offset nuts work well. Shoulder slings, and a brush to clean if it is the first lead of the year. There are now anchors on top (you have to pull the lip to reach them, save a #2 for the lip)

Photos

Muscrat

 
Muscrat    
 
Be aware that you are in a national park, and the removal of living plants is a no-no. This route gets overgrown easily, the lower easy section (5.7?) can be made difficult to protect with dirt and plants in the crack. Leader should carry a nut tool to clean the crack for pro. Hey, it's alpine!
This is a great line, fun to do laps on. It is definitely harder than 10.b if you do not use the face holds. Also fun to top rope the face below and to the left of the crack. 11? Jun 4, 2015