Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tim Laughlin, Stan Miller,
Page Views: 114 total · 2/month
Shared By: Muscrat on Jun 6, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Muscrat, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

A steep face pocketed with just enough holds to make it a great climb. The start is protected by thin gear, be careful of rope drag. Was originally 11.a, but as the rock evolves (holds break) it has become harder. The start can be quite...thrilling.

Location

Just to the left of Stegosaurus. Line goes straight up to the anchor shared with 'Stegosaurus' and 'Nothing Special'.

Protection

5 older bolts and draws for the anchor.

Photos

Muscrat

  5.11+
Muscrat    
  5.11+
This is a fun climb, but maybe it was just me, or the elevation, but 11+? Glad i was on toprope after doing Steg, this thing is a chug! I would not want to fall on the bolts, one wonders that more of them have not been ripped out. More like 12.b, IMHO. The fourth bolt has very obvious broken holds, there is no longer a decent clip stance. A real battle. And Fun! Jun 6, 2015
TheCentralScrutinizer
  5.12b PG13
TheCentralScrutinizer  
  5.12b PG13
Broken holds at the 4th bolt. It goes from an 11 to a 12 really fast. This is a really good climb with old 'bedframe' hangers, which i would not be happy falling on. First bolt is ~30' off the ground, hence my PG13 rating. Fun line. Aug 6, 2016
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
  5.12+
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
  5.12+
An awesome fun 5.11 up until the 4th bolt, then it gets really desperate. The whole thing is deteriorating past the 4th bolt. A decent foot broke while I was on it and I could see other stuff has broken recently as well. Felt like hard .12 and kinda temperature dependent. Sep 29, 2017