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Seven Pieces of Pro
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.8 from 40
votes
Routes in 4. Dave's Wall
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Aguja Celo Rey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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El Sendero Diablo TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Estrellita TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fifty foot of love T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Las Chimuelas T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Libertad T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Roofy Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Seven Pieces of Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skywire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Sorry Mom TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Thread the Gap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 41.14497, -74.16583 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,220 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on May 14, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Thoughtful "outdoor" moves up to the overhang, then fun "indoor" moves through the overhang, and a fun "outdoor" layback flake.
. . The start given here as the main route looks "unesthetic", but it would a shame to miss out on the fun of the upper three-quarters of this route if too tired after working on the more obvious Direct Start variation. Anyway the start from the right is interesting enough.
Start off to the right in the open book under the big roof, then traverse across the rounded ridge that goes up to the left edge of the big roof. So reach the crack/flake system midway. Up the double crack/flake, then through the overhang. Finish up to the ledge above (or just lower off after the layback flake).
variation (Direct Start): Start instead on the left side of the rounded ridge, directly below the crack/flake system, and figure out how to get a hand up into the bottom of the crack (5.9).
Location
Obvious crack about 5 feet left of the left end of 2-foot-wide roof about 15 feet up. This roof has Roofy Direct at its left end and
Thread the Gap at its right end.
But the easier start is off to right under the big roof.
- - > see on this Photo
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