Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 442 total · 10/month
Shared By: kenr on May 14, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Thoughtful "outdoor" moves up to the overhang, then fun "indoor" moves through the overhang, and a fun "outdoor" layback flake.

. . The start given here as the main route looks "unesthetic", but it would a shame to miss out on the fun of the upper three-quarters of this route if too tired after working on the more obvious Direct Start variation. Anyway the start from the right is interesting enough.

Start off to the right in the open book under the big roof, then traverse across the rounded ridge that goes up to the left edge of the big roof. So reach the crack/flake system midway. Up the double crack/flake, then through the overhang. Finish up to the ledge above (or just lower off after the layback flake).

variation (Direct Start): Start instead on the left side of the rounded ridge, directly below the crack/flake system, and figure out how to get a hand up into the bottom of the crack (5.9).

Location

Obvious crack about 5 feet left of the left end of 2-foot-wide roof about 15 feet up. This roof has Roofy Direct at its left end and
Thread the Gap at its right end.

But the easier start is off to right under the big roof.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

Setting up Top-Rope requires long static line or several long slings.
. . (likely want to use both trees on the ledge above and set the top anchor between them).

The 2011 print guidebook suggests that Lead climbing can be protected with Trad gear.

Photos

Austin E
  5.7 PG13
Austin E  
  5.7 PG13
Pretty fun route, easily leadable. The crack is more of a flake, but there are a couple places that might not blow out, the most solid placement is at the horizontal crack at the roof. Super solid, easy to double up on as well. Easy to set up a top rope by equalizing the two trees above the climb. Oct 6, 2017