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Routes in 4. Dave's Wall

Aguja Celo Rey TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Sendero Diablo TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Estrellita TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fifty foot of love T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Las Chimuelas TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Libertad TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roofy Direct T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seven Pieces of Pro T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry Mom TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thread the Gap TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: Norm Rasmussen, Eddie Jablonowski (6/6/13)
Page Views: 194 total, 6/month
Shared By: Systematic on May 14, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


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Description

Start at the left facing ramp to the left of some moss and right above some spider webs, use some underclings and edges to go straight up, and finish to the right of the overhang. Don't expect any buckets up top. You can work up an easy slab for an additional 15' of climbing. Rated 5.7 in some guidebooks, but maybe some holds came off...

Protection

Top rope from tree anchor. R on trad.

Location

Rightmost climb of Dave's wall.

Photos

Austin E
  5.9 R
Austin E  
  5.9 R
Started out trying to lead this but the roof did not take gear unless you have a large cam or big bro, which isn't really worth bringing up for this climb. It's not insecure, but it is a rather large move at the crux. Certainly a little unsettling trying to lead it. TR was no issue, fun moves on it. Same anchors work okay for Thread the Gap, Roofy Direct, and 7 Pieces... Oct 6, 2017
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
We had a #4 that didn't really fit but might be PG with a #5. Apr 13, 2017
kenr
  5.9 R
kenr  
  5.9 R
I suspect the difficulty move to get up to the roof is height-related -- as in much harder if you're much less tall than 5ft 7inch (170cm) with normal reach.

My feeling is that the moves from the ground up to roof were interesting and thoughtful and fun. The moves through the rough were thoughtful and strenuous but did not feel so fun.

An older print guidebook offered this name for this route: Roofy Indirect Project. (I like the title above on this page better). May 14, 2015