Type: Trad, 415 ft (126 m), 5 pitches
GPS: 41.14497, -74.16583
FA: Frank Bochanski & Mark Farrell
Page Views: 595 total · 14/month
Shared By: Frank Black on Jun 10, 2022
Admins: Morgan Patterson, SMarsh

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

In the electrical industry, a skywire is a grounding wire atop a transmission line that provides protection from lightning strikes.

This route traverses some of the 'linez most popular walls, starting at Dave's Wall and ending by Devonshire Pillar.  Don't try it on a busy weekend and be considerate of other parties.

Some of the most difficult sections involve downclimbing - the second should be just as strong a climber as the leader (maybe stronger.)

There are plenty of places to build anchors along the route so consider this pitch breakdown a suggestion:

P1: Start on the far left side of Dave’s Wall where the ground rises up below an overgrown ledge - gain the ledge and move right, then around a slight bulge/smooth arete to reach the horizontal crack that splits the slabby top half of Dave’s wall from the steeper lower half.  Follow the crack, sometimes high, sometimes low, until you're above the left side of the large roof of "Roofy Direct" - downclimb and build an anchor just below and left of the roof. (50’ 5.7)

P2: Traverse right under the roof then go up the notch on the right side. Follow a grassy ledge to the top of the "Baby Bear" column. Make some friction moves up and right, aiming for the vertical crack on "Papa Bear." Continue right past some flakes and then belay at a small tree, about fifteen feet left of the arete of "Back to the Gym." (115’ 5.8+)

P3: Walk right and slightly down, then move around the outside corner to gain the crack at the top of the white shield. Continue following the big horizontal crack all the way across Tower Wall. After you traverse cross "Dead Tree Dihedral" and under a small roof you'll go around a smooth arete and find a slightly slabby section of the Madara variation of "The Red Knob" - start moving up here past downward facing flakes to a vertical crack, then around another rounded outside corner to a face with multiple horizontal cracks. Belay here on the left side of a wide dihedral above the Enclosure. (90’ 5.7)

P4: Traverse right through the wide corner, you’ll reach a big ledge with a tree, but don’t top out - keep feet below the top. Work your way over to the right on sometimes hard-to-spot feet to reach some big boulders on the ledge for hands. After the second boulder, make a short but awkward downclimb - blind foot placements (crux) down a vertical crack, find the stance at the bottom then shake out. Continue right a few feet to another, easier, short downclimb. Keep moving right, you’ll come to a face with two horizontal cracks, one mid-wall, the other a few feet below the top, either climb high with feet in the middle crack (and awkwardly duck under a mountain laurel bush) or low with hands in the middle crack. Continue around an outside corner on easy ground and belay at a tree and a big inside corner. (75’ 5.9)

P5: Follow the obvious horizontal that splits the wall for about forty feet or so. When it ends, step over to a pillar (watch for poison ivy) and gain another big horizontal that splits the Devonshire slab. Keep traversing right, make some bouldery moves around the outside corner, and find yourself back on solid ground. (85’ 5.7)

Location Suggest change

Starts on the far left side of Dave's wall, about twelve feet below a vegetated ledge.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack plus tricams, one or two microcams and at least one large cam of BD #4 size. More gear and slings will get you through without having to break up the longer pitches.

Photos

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