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Routes in 4. Dave's Wall

Aguja Celo Rey TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Sendero Diablo TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Estrellita TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fifty foot of love T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Las Chimuelas TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Libertad TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roofy Direct T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seven Pieces of Pro T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry Mom TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thread the Gap TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 551 total · 15/month
Shared By: kenr on May 14, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Fun (strenuous) moves over the roof -- almost indoor-style with jug holds, even two "handles" a bit higher up. More outdoorsy to first get to the roof.

Start on wide open book under the roof. Up that (perhaps easier to step left around a little ridge then up that) to grab the big "tongue" just below the left half of the roof. Up and over. Finish easy up to wide ledge.

? variation 1: The 2011 print guidebook hints that it might be possible to start up the ridge directly to the bottom of thin crack (or crimp rail?) to left of open book.

? variation 2 "Indirect" (5.9): Instead of grabbing the tongue, first step left across the rounded ridge to a thin crack, then up the crack and over the roof with (if you get them right) fun moves.

Location

Below left side of obvious 2-foot-deep roof about 15 feet up, which has Thread the Gap at its right end. A rounded ridge extends down below this end of the roof, with a thin roughly-vertical crack on left side of ridge.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

Setting up Top-Rope requires long static line or several long slings.
. . (likely want to use both trees on the ledge above and set the top anchor between them).

2011 print guidebook suggests that Lead climbing is protectable with Trad gear.

Photos

Mark Sudak  
 
I would highly recommend the start on the left leaning diagonal "crack" for more of a bouldering style start. Very challenging probably closer to 5.10 territory. Definitely more of a crimp rail than a crack. Jul 6, 2016

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