All Locations > New York > Powerlinez > k. Tower Wall area > 4. Dave's Wall

Roofy Direct

Name: Roofy Direct
Rating: 3.1

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in 4. Dave's Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aguja Celo Rey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	El Sendero Diablo TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Estrellita TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Fifty foot of love T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Las Chimuelas T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Libertad T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Roofy Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Seven Pieces of Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Skywire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Sorry Mom TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Thread the Gap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m)
GPS:	41.14497, -74.16583
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	2,439 total · 19/month
Shared By:	kenr on May 14, 2015 · Updates
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, SMarsh Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

39 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance. Details

The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:

No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.

The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.

Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.

Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.

Description

Fun (strenuous) moves over the roof -- almost indoor-style with jug holds, even two "handles" a bit higher up. More outdoorsy to first get to the roof.

Start on wide open book under the roof. Up that (perhaps easier to step left around a little ridge then up that) to grab the big "tongue" just below the left half of the roof. Up and over. Finish easy up to wide ledge.

? variation 1: The 2011 print guidebook hints that it might be possible to start up the ridge directly to the bottom of thin crack (or crimp rail?) to left of open book.

? variation 2 "Indirect" (5.9): Instead of grabbing the tongue, first step left across the rounded ridge to a thin crack, then up the crack and over the roof with (if you get them right) fun moves.

Location

Below left side of obvious 2-foot-deep roof about 15 feet up, which has Thread the Gap at its right end. A rounded ridge extends down below this end of the roof, with a thin roughly-vertical crack on left side of ridge.

- - > see on this Photo